Nice, Mikie. I'd seen that before, but had forgotten about it. We did a canoe trip on the creek about 1976, back when I was really into float trips. It was in spring flood, and was quite a ride.

Jim Manasco, named in the history, was a child of my first grade teacher. They were almost full blooded Chickasaw Indians.

One last Jasper story. Jasper was a rich/poor town, with a minisclue middle class. The county was dirt poor, coal miners mostly, as the soil was too poor to farm over much of the county. One of the local "recreations" was to go to the hospital just to see who was there. One of my father's friends was in the hospital recovering from a hemorrhoidectomy. One of the galoots wandering the halls stuck his head in the door and asked "Whatcha in har fur?". Daddy's friend, somewhat embarrased, replied he was in the hospital for a "rectal" procedure. The galoot pondered for a minute, and asked, "Train wrack or car wrack?"...

Connectors/pins have been visually checked at the ecm, transistor, and coil packs. This is a thinking out loud statement/question: Regarding the crank sensor, it appears to me it provides data only for the injectors and has no direct influence on the coils? As for the camshaft sensor, same for it however, an outside source schematic I Have shows the black wire connected from the transistor to the coil packs originates from the camshaft sensor. It also goes to the fuel injection relay.

It's my understanding that pre-1996 are OBD1. His description of his ADL connector sounds like an OBD2. Is it an OBD1 or 2? Will an OBD2 scan tool read his ECM?

EDIT: Is the following true? "The 94's and 95's use an OBD1 protocol. If you have a check engine light, there is a simple way of reading it. You need a piece of wire about 2 ft long. Stick one end in the OBD2 port terminal that is closest to the engine bay and the center console and ground the other end to a bolt. Turn the key to the on position and the check engine light will flash the fault code with long blinks being the 10's digit and short blinks being the 1's digit. So, 4 long blinks and 3 short blinks would be 43.

This only works on 94-95 models"

That will read the codes. The black wire you are referencing is probably a ground wire. As I understand the system, the ecu gathers info from the cts and cam and crank sensor for ignition and injection timing. The ecu is a "black box" on all the diagrams I've seen, except for the first component on the ignition and injections circuits, which is a power transistor for switching those circuits ground path. It is good electrical practice, followed in the ecu, to control circuits with the ground path, as this carries less current than the power side due to resistance of the controlled components.

I'd start by following the fsm test series on the pertinent componenets. Cam sensor, crank sensor (a loosening crank bolt has been known to damage the crank sensor), power transistor, coil resistances. To test the coils, clamp the two coil plugs together with a hose clamp, ground them, supply 12v+ to the coil power supply, ground the coil ground wire, then break the ground, and both plugs should spark.

From my reading on the subject, some 94s and 95s have what is called a "hybrid" system. They still use OBDI protocol, but have an OBDII connector under the dash. This is how my 95 is. I have to read codes by grounding out pin #1 on the OBDII connector, and the check engine light will flash diagnostic codes.

Here's what we discovered today. Coil #3 has a black/yellow wire. Which ever coil we moved the blk/yel wire to, that coil would not fire. We swapped his new transistor with the old one and had the same results. Using a DMM at each colored wire attached to each coil, all 3 showed the same voltage drop while the engine was being cranked. It's as though the circuit for the blk/yel wire is not opening to fire the coil.

Check the red/blue stripe wire from ecu 26pin connector, position 11, catch up, 11th in top row for power with ign on. This powers the power transistor on state from the ecu, Either the ecu is bad, or the wire has a break at the connector or internally, or you have two bad power transistor assy's. This is the circuit that leads to the black/yellow wire you reference. I would cycle the ecu connector, check the 11 wire connector for push out, and ohm it for a break IF the wire checks out sound, it's the ecu, probably a failed power transistor.

Will do. Thank you.

Well I think you already tried all things...but if you are still in that problem then you should contact with some mechanic because it sounds some big issue with your ride... because as you write you already tried to every basic thing.. good luck mate.

That is not the case here. He hasn't tried (or at least hasn't posted back results) what I recommended, which I based on a knowledge of how the system works and simple logic, and I'm a pretty good mechanic. At least half of all the "professional" mechanics I've ever met are not as good as I am at diagnosis. There are some on here better than I am, too...

There is a practice test online for ASE Master certification. I took it and passed all the sections except electronic diesel, and I came within 5 points of passing that one.

Done braggin' now...