Hey All I've searched quite a bit but have not been able to find the answers I'm looking for. Could somebody line me out on exactly which kit and or extras I need to order?

So far this is what I'm thinking;
-D12 kit, 12 mounts (2.5" diameter 2" tall)
-Extra long Hardware?
does this look right? Thanks.

Looks right. Extra long hardware are probably for those who may upgrade to a 3" BL at some point. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks Off-roader, I just bought the D12 kit maybe I'll do a short write up with pics (since i just finally learned how to post pics)for newbs like me who are doing all this stuff for the first time. Probably be a few weeks till I get them and have time for the instal.

No problem. As an FYI, please check out the FAQ post at the top of this forum. There are 2 lift threads there. Pic's are gone but I think you'll be fine without them. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I've checked out the FAQ thread but haven't found anything specific to the Gen2 or SR. Am I missing it?

No you're not. I haven't stickied one for the Gen2 because it's effectively an identical process to the Gen1.

It's pretty simple. Undo the nuts on all ten body mounts. Jack up the body on one side. I used wood blocks between a floor jack and the underside of the body to spread the weight out. Do not try jacking the body up at the wheel wells. Insert the lift blocks (the ones furthest front will make you jack the body up really high; be prepared. Drop the bolts into place but do not attach or tighten the nuts yet. Repeat for the other side, this time attaching the nuts, but do not tighten. Remove jack and attach and tighten remaining nuts, including side 2.

Pay attention to the brake lines, both front and rear. The rears may have a bracket that has to be unbolted to allow them to drop down enough and the fronts may need to have the solid line adjusted where it passes through the inner fender. This ones important. You want the front lines to pass through the center of the drilled hole, not rubbing on the metal which will cut the metal line eventually.

There may be a support for the fuel lines that has to be unbolted or the fuel lines may become disconnected as the body is raised. Likewise, there may be a holder for the fuel fill hose that becomes too tight.

If your shifter doesn't allow you to shift into 1st gear or go into park, you can adjust the shifter linkage under the truck, but as I recall, the Gen 2 is a cable and doesn't need anything. The transfer case shifter will be really short-looking but should still shift O.K., but if it doesn't, and it hits the console's plastic, you'll have to remove the console and notch out where it hits so it can move freely.

You might have to readjust your headlights; maybe not. Just check to be sure they point where you want them and not too far ahead.

Let us know if you have any other questions.

John B.

JohnnyB, thanks for the info this is basically what I've been looking for, tips and tricks to make it go a little smoother. I'll let y'all know how it goes.

To add to JBFP's post, don't forget to remove the rear bumper before you put the lift on. There are two tabs on the rear of the body that will prevent you from being able to lift the body high enough to get the rear pucks in.

There is a bracket on the fuel filler tube that might need to be removed. My 2" BL didn't need it, but my brother's 2" BL, and my Pops 3" BL both needed that bracket removed to keep the strain off the filler tube.

Might want to pick up a shifter extension for the T Case shifter. Mine hits the tranny shifter housing and squeaks like crazy. I'm going to be ordering one.

Radiator will have to be mounted lower to compensate for the body lift if you want to retain your fan shroud.

Good points, Canyonero. I'd forgotten the bumper and the radiator stuff.

As to the radiator, if you remove it, you can redrill the two lower mounting holes 2" higher. There's no metal to do that for the upper holes, so just put some larger washers on the upper bolts and use them to "catch" the metal lip of the rad and hold it in place. It becomes obvious when you see it done, and it works. I recommend keeping the shroud in there.

John B.