Aw, Phil, I think you just think I'm pretty. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I've been the beneficiary of a lot of real good advice over the years from the older and more experienced brothers of the trench, and I feel it's my duty and privelege to pass it on to my younger or less experienced brothers (and sisters).

Here's to Roger the Dodger, a&p mechanic and the best diagnostician I've ever met, who taught me tons as a snot nosed cocky hot rodder with more imagination than sense. He helped me plan and build the 301 destroked supercharged SBC that I and a partner toured N Al, TN, MS, and GA, teaching the local boys not to bet on drag races with the boys from the Shoals in the five five two door post Chevy 210 with the acid dipped body and slicks. We beat everthing we ran, including 427 Corvette, Hemi Dodges, and a slew of 396 Chevelles. And to Mack, the grizzled old machinist who taught me to measure twice and cut once, and what "blueprinting" a motor means. And many, many more over the years, including parts countermen and

Replacing the injector seals will have zero effect on an injector that might be leaking, unless you've got obvious signs of fuel leakage from the fuel rail and the accompanying fuel smell in the engine compartment. I'd be more inclined to suspect a dirty injector or a bad fuel pressure regulator. Like John B. said, sending them out to be cleaned and flow tested from a respected company isn't a bad idea if the vehicle has got some miles on it. Bad fuel injectors are uncommon on Monteros, but if the vehicle sat for long periods of time there could be varnish gumming up the injector internals. The good injector places will give you flow and spray pattern data from both before and after the injectors are cleaned so you'll know if there was any leakage and how badly the injectors were clogged.

I found 4 injector o-rings leaking so hopefully that will solve this issue. None of the injector were clogged or even dirty for that matter.

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FE, it's been a long time since I said this (or a long time since I've said much on here truthfully), but at risk of taking this thread sideways for a second, its this kind of simple straightforward advice from you and several handfuls of others over the years that elevates this forum head and shoulders above the others, IMHO.

Thanks again. You make us great. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> [/quote]

well said. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

steel seal is a great product. Don't understand how it works, but it does. I've used it on 3 different engines, including one 2.6 that I run the pi$$ out of.

How well does Steel seal work on aluminum?

So glad I didn't use a stop leak! Leak test showed only 60% in all cylinders on the right bank so I pulled the heads. The mls gaskets were mutilated. Most of the coating was in chunks or bubbly with coolant. Had coolant all up in my valve ports and top of the pistons were flooded with coolant. ( wondered why the coolant wasn't draining fully) Totally amazed my oil pan wasn't full of it too.

I order a graphite composite gasket instead. Nooooo way, I'll use another mls.

Do you pull the pin out before you release the adjuster or hold in there until after its released??

Apply pressure to the rocker, insert the pin and press the ball, remove the pin, let the rocker rise.

Thanks for all the help and info!!