I need to put an auxliliary fan on the Pajero Gen 1 92 with 2.8TD A/T fitted....I believe the answer will be the same for all body styles....There's very little room in front of the condensor - I could possibly modify the strut support for the hood latch and "box" it out to fit a large fan (16" 2250 CFM 2 1/2" thck) and make it work.....BUT - looking behind the condensor there looks to be close to 2 1/2" between the condensor and radiator.....does anyone know the actual depth/clearance? It seems it might be easier to possibly spacer out the condensor forward to create depth and put the fan between the two - has anyone thought of this? It overheats on long steep pulls - and they are both long and steep here - everything else has been thought of/corrected/modified.....

The clutch fan doesn't pull enough air? How large is the radiator?

New clutch & fan - in the driveway I can hold shredded paper up and seems to draw just fine - had radiator upgraded to 4 row custom made.....added a trans cooler to isolate....WP & T-stat are within a year - running coolant @70%/30% mineral water to maximize heat displacement (this helped coupled with the other things)....system is clean..... took the Cree light bar from the center of the ARB in front of the grill and put two smaller instead to help air flow upgrading to 2 light bars (one on each side out of the flow area)can run all day long in 30-38C at highway speeds 550-630K per tank and gauge is good even though there are some high/long pulls can take them at speed....it's the long pulls (slow) that get to it....those roads are steeply graded with mutiple switchbacks & getting up to speed is doesn't happen much - that's why the HD aux fan (I think) would be the way to go.....the one I have is used on pro-stock cars - I'll run either a sensor or dash switch......Turbo cooling fan is working correctly also.....

If you're overheating while moving at more than 35 mph, you don't have a fan problem. Airflow due to vehicle motion at that speed is sufficient and adding a fan won't help the situation at all. You have some other problem that needs to be addressed. Auxiliary lights blocking the radiator opening are probably a significant contributor, but it sounds like you've got that handled. Is the plastic shield below the radiator in place and in good condition? You have a stack of heat exchangers (condenser, radiator, trans cooler) that you're trying to force air through, and the incoming air will take a path of less resistance if one exists.

You might want to experiment with running 100% distilled water along with Redline Water Wetter (or an equivalent product), and a higher pressure radiator cap.

The plastic/rubber shield below the radiator is solid & in place....actually have it in front of the sway bar to channel air a little better......I've wondered about the radiator cap - knowing the #'s verus degree factors involved but was worried an increase might be too much - currently the stock 9 bar cap is in place (new).....these pulls are not @ 35MPH/50KPH always mostly below......the cooler for the trans has a fan and is in the upper left hand quadrant of the radiator...I've though about relocating but it puts it close to road debris harm....there is no belly pan.....H2O seems to leave it suseptible to hot soak/heat build up on long hauls & does not recover as quickly as when the coolant is present/// A/C is also not as efficient and gauge runs a little hotter.....the LED's in front of the grill are 4x4 each - much smaller than the previous LED light bar or Daylighters.....looks wise almost too small but work well enough....I'd attach pic's if I could.....think higher value pressure cap ok?

If water infiltration isn't an issue, raise the rear of the hood with spacers to allow hot air to vent. Worked in a Starion that no matter what I did, ran warm... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

I'm thinking 70% coolant is too high. Anything greater than 50% does you no good, and less than fifty is even better for heat transfer but gives up some anti-corrosion properties. RyanY is right in suggesting 100% h20 with Water Wetter, but there's little anti-corrosion properties in that mix, albeit with maximum heat transfer capabilities. Water is better at heat transfer than is coolant, bottom line.

John B.

Hey Pete, not sure you can get water wetter in Thailand, but I can get a bottle as close to you as Bangkok in mid November. I swing through there on Nov 12, 13, 14, 15 depart early 16. Let me know.

What is the operating temperature range of various water and coolant concentrate blends?

Volume dilutions and resultant temperature operating ranges are provided below for typical ethylene glycol coolant concentrate.


% ANTIFREEZE

% WATER

PROTECTION AGAINST FREEZING

*PROTECTION AGAINST BOIL-OVER


30 70 -17?C 121?C
40 60 -23?C 126?C
50 50 -37?C 129?C
60 40 -52?C 132?C
70 30 -64?C 136?C



*WITH A 100 KILOPASCAL (15 PSI) RADIATOR CAP IN GOOD CONDITION

This is the scale I went by....freezing of course is not a problem here....believe it or not the temp gauge running position lowered once I went from 50% to 70% with no heat soak/built over long term running with normal terrain including some pulls that were mini grapevine type (about 1/2) but at speed.....there is only one coolant not premixed here and I use that along with the concentration tester to seek the mixture/balance.....when I did run straight mineral water here the gauge ran higher on the same drive during at the same temps and tended to heat soak (temp increasing the longer the run - but always in the OK zone)....the coolant made a significant change to the better....there's no heaters in the cars here & I upsized thr radiator so had to trial and error it for awhile as the coolant itself indicated a 5 part H2O mix to 1 part Coolant and comes in liters so couldn't break it down by gallons like we did in the states....the only time I get the O/H is when the climbs are long and steep and the speeds are low...
That's why I'm thinking fan......

Realizing most are gas rigs in the US verus diesel here - has anyone upped the poundage of their radiator cap? It's possible that mine does not hold as it should - no way to test but cap change out didn't change much if anything.....

Just got the evil eye from the wife as we're heading out for a trip early AM & I'm on the PC....Will check back in a day or so.....

Bad idea. The area directly in front of the windshield is a high pressure area. Raising the rear of the hood will allow that high pressure air into the engine compartment and increase the air pressure on the back side of the radiator. Raising the pressure on the back side of the radiator makes it even harder for air to flow through it from the front and will reduce your cooling efficiency. If you're wanting to reduce underhood pressures in order to increase the airflow through the radiator, a hood vent directly behind the radiator is your best bet (the center of the hood is low pressure). Look at performance cars like Vipers, Lotus Elises, & Ferraris and note where their hood vents are located.