I'm off tomorrow. Will make that happen. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

F*** your right, been out pushin snow drove a bunch, no issues at all, drove to work(40 miles) all good, go to leave got a mile from work....dies... wont restart, walk back to work, borrow a company car, stop by the rig to grab some crap so it dont get stolen, try it again.... starts right up... WTF... maybe its car carma for not posting pics... stopped and grabbed a spark/light tester for when it happens again.... at my wits end...hopefully will pst pics tonight, gonna try driving it home tonight.

I know you've checked out your wiring but it still seems like the most likely cause of the problem you describe. Have you checked the harness at the fuel pump? Your dash lights are on when it dies?

When I had a similar problem it was caused by the wires on the capacitor and lc filter being so old the insulation was cracked. I would start with the wires near the coil and wiggle where they meet the main harness circled in the picture. Ignition module, lc filter and capacitor would be my first spots to check.

I have not checked the wires at the fuel pump, your talking by the tank right? Id suspect if it was fuel related it would sputter, tonight it died once on the way home and I thought oh I'm gonna figure it out, put my hat, gloves coveralls on got the new spark tester out of its package, popped the hood, thought well I better try it before I hook it up, bam started right up!!!drove to the liquor store grabbed a six pack, took some pics and here I am.Ill try wiggling those wires once it gets up to 20. Whats a ic filter?Ill chase the wires back a little off the coil and spark ignitor, see if that gets me anywhere. Thanks MM

Heres some pics of me and Brugh plowing & a monkey in my sink.
[/image] [img][image]http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag412/tracianddana1/002_zpsklcw6hb8.jpg[/img][/image] [img][image]http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag412/tracianddana1/001_zpscr6cqmyd.jpg[/img][/image]

The lc filter is the rectangular thing on the coil bracket should be next to the round capacitor.

LC filter has 2 wires and cap has 1.

Yeah, I was talking about the wires on the tank for the fuel pump but yes it probably would act different if it was the problem.

The plugs at the ECU are another good thing to check out. Either by moving the wires around like you have been or disconnecting the plugs and checking that the pins are secure and even by eye.

I put dielectric grease on a lot of my terminals and recommend that to keep better contact for the future

nice pics btw

Replace Ig plug with new ..Place TPS plug with good used ...Replace fuse links all fuses ...In that order.. Do a 'real' wiring tune up ...Not just a fly by ... Your spiking the sh*&^t out of your ECU ... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />...You do know this ...?

Sorry to sound like a *&^% and so short ...But work is calling

Captain Gear Box

Hazardous Toys inc

Haztoys is right if something is shorting out it could cook the ECU.
Here's the part number for the igniter plug

Standard brand # S745

Napa part # EC173

Igniter or coil plug, betcha. LC filter is both of the doojiggees under the coil bracket, and only conditions the signal to the tach - wont affect spark unless the circuit grounds. TPS plug bad will throw a code and run bad, but not just chop off spark.

It's spark related for sure with the tach going dead and not responding and not twitching while cranking.

Best bet is the igniter or plug. If igniter, may be a heat related failure. To test, start a cold engine. After warmed up, use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat up the power transistor/igniter and see if it dies, then will immediately restart after you cool off the PT with a cube of ice in a plastic bag or a/c juice.

Bought the plug today, Ill try the hairdryer trick tomorrow, bought sometimes it starts right back up and runs for hours, of course it has been damned cold here.MM