Sorry I know, this topic has been hashed out over and over and over............ but have to revisit.

My Montero is like an 80 year man, it just does not like to stretch and I've been fine with it. But watching a video of my rig from last weekend made me realized how little travel it actually has.

https://youtu.be/HmJItolj2Ls?t=6m20s my rig is next up the hill.

The rig is my daily driver and is used to tow a 16 ft camper.

I've added OME heavy duty springs & torsion bars plus a 2" body lift, then crank torsion bar right up. Trimmed the upper bump stops by half, though have not touched the lower stops. If the rig just sees a bump or rock in the road a tire comes off the ground. The Aussie locker helps with traction but nothing beats having all four on the road.

What can realistically be done to increase travel?

The way I see it for serious travel - SAS swap is the way to go but since it's a daily drive this does not seem realistic. Feel it would loose reliability, job outside of my skill set though have friends and need a daily driver, job would have to be done in a weekend. Then there are the dollars involved.

Removing the sway bars would definitely help but concerned how truck would handle towing trailer. If there was a quick disconnect option would be all over it. Any ideas? I've not seen anything.

Flipping ball joints may help a bit. There seems to be a lot of controversy around this but did it on my last Gen II without issue. Although I'm not a skinny pedal kind of driver off road.

What other options are out there for modest travel gains? Are Gen III control arms compatible and are they any longer?

Thanks,
~ Jon

Sounds like you need another truck. SAS wouldn't be dependable? Why? Hard to imagine even with all parts on hand getting done in a weekend.

See:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/persson/

Enter Montero swaybar disconnects in the search box at the top of the page. There are more forum discussion covering the topic.

Regarding the front suspension first: it only has a limited amount of travel due to the various parts it comprises. You indicate that you've cranked the torsion bars up, have cut the upper stop, and do wheel stands. My question for this end is how much distance have you left for downtravel?

For the rear suspension, this end has the most potential for travel. Once you determine what to do about sway bar connections, there is at least one option I've never read about on the forums, though some others may have at least considered this or have pondered...the use of orbital bushings in the lower control arms....?? Secondly, has anyone discussed using the Currie Anti-Rock bar to replace the OE piece?

I don't know why you'd think a solid axle would negate reliability over the IFS. Afterall, the rear is a solid axle, right? Solid axle conversion might be scary, but many have done this...think Land Raider! You might further consider your front suspension options...maybe even so far as a Ford TTB Dana 44 or 50 from Dixon Bros. or Fabtech...coil springs and long travel.

A borrowed picture:

If the suspension is taken from a complete vehicle, like on the LandRaider so it isn't piecemeal. The LandRaider has the complete axle and suspension from a Wagoneer. Leaf springs and all. The vehicle is stable as can be at speed. Even with 36's. But let's go back to your front end. Stiffer torsion bars are going to hold it steady, as opposed to allowing it to flex. If'n you were deeply concerned with flex, you would need to go back to stock torsion bars. Even then, you'll be limited. The stock cv is your limiting factor. Look at how skinny it is. Take a gander at a Toyota cv. Seems twice as wide.

Currie anti-rock will work nice, otherwise you can leave the IFS alone it gets weaker the farther you make it move. The rear however can be made to flex way out and help compensate for the lack up front. Shock towers, longer shocks and coil spring retainers, mine has been super reliable and flexy for a long time and I wouldn't go back. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I was hoping you would chime in Toasty. Will the flexibility harm the towing capacity he wants?

I've been thinking about it and I can't imagine it would affect it. Same spring and all.

Thanks for all the replies guys!!

Don't get me wrong, I've always been aware of the travel limitation and willing to live within it's bounds. But the video kinda smacked me in the face and got me on the band wagon for more travel.

KF6ZPL - Thanks for the link. Looks like I have some reading to do.

SAS - Don't know if SAS would really be less reliable. Just scares me to cut out a perfectly reliable suspension and replace. With me doing the work, not sure how reliable it would <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

rxinhed - I'll try to get some measurements after I get back from camping this weekend. Interesting idea on the Ford TTB, I wheel with a big group of Ford guys. I need to go look up threads on LandRaider's rig again.


Mudraider - Agreed the heavy duty torsion bars might of been a mistake. I was more concerned about towing when the decision. Yep CVs are at issue....

Toasty - The Currie Anti-rock is interesting combined with the shock towers and longer shocks would definitely add rear travel. Their universal kits are reasonable at around $600. Has anyone installed one on Monty?


I think for now, while figuring this will:
- get some measurements for a baseline with and without sway bar connected
- pull front sway bar
- consider flipping ball joints
- read up on disconnects
- read up on the shock tower mod

Thanks,
~ Jon

Unfortunately Drew (Drew Persson) is no longer making those. Plus from my experience with a set, I wouldn't recommend them since the anti-sway bars have a tendency to drop at the most inopportune time and get bent on the rocks. What happened with mine was they bent outwards and nearly punched a hole in my BFG's.