Hello everyone,

I am currently planning on replacing my auto transmission on my 89 v6 montero in the coming weeks. I know that it has the A44D (KM148) but I am replacing it with the lock-up version A44DL from a 91 montero. This job is not taking place just because I want to upgrade, it's happening because 2nd gear is slipping bad in the current transmission. I've tried adjusting the kickdown cable to fix the issue but doesn't seem to matter how I adjust, still slips so I'm guessing the 2nd gear band or maybe an accumulator is messed up.

Anyways, so my question is in regard to seating the torque converter. Does it make 2 or 3 clunks as it engages into the transmission pump? Just want to be clear so I don't break anything or find out the hard way by locking the engine when the torque converter jams.. lol

Also, any other issues you think I may face when doing this swap? I'd like to hear from everyone who has a lot of experience in this area. I've already got seals/gaskets on their way.

Thank you guys!

Man, this is one of those questions you need fasteddy

Thanks for the response.... I find it hard to believe that no one on here has apparently ever did work to their transmission. I know most transmissions takes just 2 clunks to fully seat the torque converter - I'll just assume that hopefully this is the same.

Yupp the torque converter goes in with two clunks. Mitsubishi ATF is said to be only what to use in them. Based on a few conversations I've come across online. Cheapest place I found to get SPIII was $8/quart+shipping.
I'll be using the Mitsu SPIII in the trans and Redline MT-85 in the transfer case.

What seals and gaskets are you changing?
I'll be doing a swap of trans, transfer case, and rear end in the coming weeks too.
Something I noticed and didn't expect when splitting a spare trans and transfer case was a guide pin below the transfer case shifter, thought it was a broken bolt at first.

danz91crx,

Thanks for the information concerning the number of clunks to get the torque converter fully seated... I appreciate it. I found some oil made by Castrol called Transmax Import Multi-vehicle - on the back it says fully compliant with Mitsubishi Diamond SPII & SPIII, as well as Dexron III (which the FSM says Dexron II will work) if I remember correctly.
Here's the stuff I'm talking about: http://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/p...ltivehicle.html


I'm going to be replacing the pump seal, the filter, pan gasket, and tail shaft seal. I also have a new gasket to put on the extension housing between the tranny and transfer case. I do kind of want to take apart the transmission I'm putting in and replace even more stuff but I feel like that may be a bad idea. So hopefully those few seals and gaskets will be enough.

Good luck on your swap. If I run into any issues, I'll try to let you know about them so you can plan ahead

OH,
forgot to mention and this is very important... replace your torque converter bolts as they stretch over time.... not a big deal if you are swapping in another KM148 but if you are going to the lock-up tranny like me, that clearance matters. I read about this stretch issue either here in the 4x4wire forums or on expeditionportal, can't remember. I'd rather be safe then sorry

The P/N is MD950120 and you will need 6 of them. I ordered from Mitsubishiparts.com, they were $6.60/each.

Thanks, I hope your swap goes well also. I'd like to hear how the trans fluid works out as the stories just seem far fetched. I have a feeling if there was a problem with someones transmission it wasn't caused by fluid choice alone. (within reason) Some had also said that they only change the trans fluid by draining and replacing 1 quart at a time at each oil change for a period. I really didn't get that, seems like all the contaminants would still be in there and your wasting time in money. Best way I see to do it is remove the pan so you can clean the magnets and filter. If the trans is gonna go into "shock" from new fluid Id say you have other problems then what brand fluid you used. I'm pretty new to this voodoo, just my .02
My swap involves two lock up type transmissions

From the factory, the Unit calls for Dexron II. Since that's no longer licensed, its technically no longer available.

Dexron III was the replacement.. That's also no longer licensed. Some companies sell a replacement.

I have been using Valvoline DEX/MERC fluid that is listed as compatible to Dexron III. Seems to shift smoothly and is readily available, no issues over the past few months.

The Converter bolts don't stretch over time. They can stretch if over torqued. The claim that there were stretching was based on measuring the length of used bolts. Since bolt length was unknown before installation and they easily could have started out slightly longer.

Correctly torqued, they are reusable.

The same person claimed the heads bolts bottomed on the V6 if you milled the heads. Personally I have never seen it happen and have my doubts. Still, new bolts are cheap insurance.

Converter installation. All that matters is you get the pump tangs lined up so the converter seats. You slide the converter on and rotate until you feel it seat. The first piece that engages is the stator. That's the majority of the distance it slides on. The pump tangs are next. Spin and press, even pull back a tiny bit as you spin and press again. The converter drops in the depth of the tang.

Thats about a 1/4" drop and a solid thunk. The pump also wants to rotate as you spin the converter so its not a slam dunk to get it seated.