The rear has started to chatter on turning, about 130k I bet on the original fluid. I was planning on replacing this with Redline or Amsoil ( WHat about mobil 1 lube ?) <P>I hear the Redline doesn't need the modifer<P>Are the disks fryed or will a fluid change alleviate the chatter. It only happen occasionally.<P>Air pressure is even with 225/70-15 bridgstone dueler<P>87 Raider 2.6 Auto<P>Thanks<BR>- bill

There is a TSB from Mitsu. on this. The fix is- -pull the diff , dissamble and swap out two clutch discs for two clutch plates. This "softens"(read makes the diff closer to an open diff) the action when under sharp cornering at slow speeds. I don't think you can wear one of these LSD's out unless you run it out of oil.<BR>My $.02<BR>Kary

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mustangjs:<BR><STRONG>The rear has started to chatter on turning, about 130k I bet on the original fluid. I was planning on replacing this with Redline or Amsoil ( WHat about mobil 1 lube ?) <P>I hear the Redline doesn't need the modifer<P>Are the disks fryed or will a fluid change alleviate the chatter. It only happen occasionally.<P>Air pressure is even with 225/70-15 bridgstone dueler<P>87 Raider 2.6 Auto<P>Thanks<BR>- bill</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P><BR>Short of trying the TSB that Kary mentioned (not needed IMHO) I strongly recomend (again) based on years of using Mitsubishi LSD units the Redline gear lube. You dont need any additive with the Redline lube that is listed for use with limited slip differentials.<P>Summit Racing Equipment is a good source. It cleared up the chatter in my unit in short order. Gear lube is supposed to be changed at about 30,000 or so miles on the LSD units if I remember correctly.<P>KC<p>[ 17 September 2001: Message edited by: Kevin C ]

mustang,before you go to the trouble of tearing apart your LSD, replace with Mobil 1, and a bottle of "friction modifier", the friction modifier is available at your mitsubishi dealer for about $8... we have two with LSD's... both chattered about on corners.. etc.. with a drain and refil of the rear diff, and refil with mobil 1 and the friction mod, all chatter is gone and LSD works MUCH BETTER... while you are at the dealer... pick up the aluminum crush washers for the rear diff...

If you think the lube hasn't been changed since new, you might want to run some dino in there first, for a few miles, to loosen up any gunk that was in there, then put in the redline.<P>I changed mine first with dino, then read about the redline stuff.<BR>When I drained it, it was black, after only two weeks.<P>Dave

My intent was not to "say pull your diff" as I also beleive that this TSB was ment to silence some winer's that may never go Off-road. I like the fact that mine "squeaks" the tires when cornering - that way I know its working. Try the oil-especialy if this is a new sound that just started - But I think that most LSD's make noise normally when cornering if they are working correctly.<BR>Good luck<BR>Kary

I will change the fluid twice, first with some cheap clean organic fluid... then wait a few weeks and go with the redline.<P>Have a Nice day :-)

Just a note too: Since is has been quite a few miles on the current differential fluid...do it right and completely remove the diff. cover. and drain and clean it this way. It is SUPER easy.<P>I use brake cleaner or an engine degreaser when I clean mine out, I do it yearly as I am VERY hard on my differentials.<P>Wipe it out with a towel or whatever, then refill with favorite fluid.<P>I use 80/140 in both FRONT and REAR differentials and NEVER had a problem with noise, outside of slight driveline vibe from pinion angles.<P>Good luck! <P>PS It took me about 45minutes to do my front differential the very first time I ever did it myself...that included going to the bathroom, drinking an adult beverage, feeding the dog...you get the picture...it is an EASY do it yourself job, at least on the rear diff...the front IFS diff can be kinda hard to get to depending on your vehicle/make/model.<P><BR>EDIT: The limited slip units that come stock on 99% of ALL vehicles do wear out eventually. The only kind that will last nearly as long as the vehicle is a gear driven limited slip such as the Detroit True-Track.<p>[ 18 September 2001: Message edited by: CerOf ]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by CerOf:<BR><STRONG>Just a note too: Since is has been quite a few miles on the current differential fluid...do it right and completely remove the diff. cover. and drain and clean it this way. It is SUPER easy.<P>I use brake cleaner or an engine degreaser when I clean mine out, I do it yearly as I am VERY hard on my differentials.<P>Wipe it out with a towel or whatever, then refill with favorite fluid.<P>I use 80/140 in both FRONT and REAR differentials and NEVER had a problem with noise, outside of slight driveline vibe from pinion angles.<P>Good luck! <P>PS It took me about 45minutes to do my front differential the very first time I ever did it myself...that included going to the bathroom, drinking an adult beverage, feeding the dog...you get the picture...it is an EASY do it yourself job, at least on the rear diff...the front IFS diff can be kinda hard to get to depending on your vehicle/make/model.<P><BR>EDIT: The limited slip units that come stock on 99% of ALL vehicles do wear out eventually. The only kind that will last nearly as long as the vehicle is a gear driven limited slip such as the Detroit True-Track.<P>[ 18 September 2001: Message edited by: CerOf ]</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>The only problem with trying to remove the rear cover on the Gen 1 vehicle is it does not have one.<P>A simple change is a huge improvment. If you get any chatter with the non synthetic lube the flush makes no sense since you will be getting metal contamination in the new oil.<P>Most of what does not drain out is left in the axle tubes. Angle the rear axle to each side with the drian plug out and you can get more old fluid out.<P>Im my experiance the Mitsubshi units will produce a bit of metal since they are steel on steel clutches but per say they dont lose much preload.<P>I have taken apart old high millage units that were still in spec (on the high side). The metal they did produce was more galling they took out metal in small areas but the clutch did not lose much overall thickness.<P>This is on 120,000 plus mile units. What did seem to take a beating was the gears. The only time you will find bad clutches is if the unit got overheated by spinning the unit a lot when stuck. <P>Hang one tire in the air and let it spin with the other wheel not turning and you will get the cluthes hot. Keep doing it and you will burn them up<P>Kevin C

Mustang, you may want to put the friction modifier in there even with the "organic" fluid... it's my understanding that the friction modifier helps the clutches to engage... thus not having it would heat the diff up by not "helping" the clutches...