I checked the archives, but only saw a debate on whether or not they work and if you should use loc-tite on the helicoils when you install them (should you? two said yes, one said no).

I'm looking more for a how-to article and/or a reply for someone like me that hasn't used them before.

Do I need a special drill, bit, or any other equipment besides the helicoil kit? What size kit for the stock 22RE head studs (or should I go with a different size stud)? Any recommendations on technique/method to get a straight hole, ensure successful install, etc.?

Thanks

*I would suggest bagging the Helicoil idea all together and install SB Chevy rocker studs instead. Got this tip from Tim @DOA as well as Ted-Engnbldr. Ted sent me up 4 of the studs with nuts, I retapped the stripped holes to 7/16", applied a little sealer to the threads as insurance and was done in less than 30 minutes doing 2 holes. No problems at all. ~Darin

I've Helicoiled (Permacoiled actually- from NAPA), all my exhause manifold studs and never had a problem since. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="images/icons/smile.gif" />

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Esquire812:
<strong>*I would suggest bagging the Helicoil idea all together and install SB Chevy rocker studs instead. Got this tip from Tim @DOA as well as Ted-Engnbldr. Ted sent me up 4 of the studs with nuts, I retapped the stripped holes to 7/16", applied a little sealer to the threads as insurance and was done in less than 30 minutes doing 2 holes. No problems at all. ~Darin</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">That's some great info! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="images/icons/cool.gif" />

I just helicoiled 2 studs on my 22re. I asked about this a few weeks ago. heres what I did. Went to napa to get the kit. It was 60 some odd dollars. Too pricy for what you get, but I needed the right size and thats where I found it. I think they called it a 1.5 by 10 I think. Kit came with the proper size coils, tap, and a crappy install tool. I wound up using the tool from a 19.00 autozone kit that I had got but the coils and tap were the wrong size. I also got an exhause manifold gasket from auto zone. I removed the air tube from the manifold and then removed the manifold. It may be best to remove the down pipe from the manifold first also. Once it was all out of the way, I had to buy a drill set that had a 13/64 (or was it 13/32) drill size. I marked the bit so I would not drill in too far. It was tough getting the drill and bit in there to drill. I wanted it to be as straight and true as I could get, although I was not perfect. I took it slow and drilled the hole out. I then got a small rubber tube, inserted it most of the way into the hole, and blew through it to blow shavings out of it. Then I tapped it with the tap. I just happened to have a tap set that gave me an adapter so I could use my ratchet. I then blew the shavings out again. I used the crappy tool from napa to insert the coil. Once in, I installed the stud untill tight. I then removed carbon and sanded smooth the mating surface of the manifold and the head with 300 or 500 or so grit sand paper. I coated the exhaust gasket with copper seal(used this on jetski exhaust)and installed everything. Be sure to torque from the inside most studs and work your way out. I torqued in 2 increments to 33 ft lbs I think. During this process, one more stud started pulling out from the same area as the first. I just let it pull out, then pulled it all the way out with vice grips on the nut. I left the manifold on and drilled slowly into the head with the drill, retapped it and cleaned out the shavings, put the coil in, ( it was hard to tell when it was in all the way, but use the tool as a depth guage)reinserted that stud and used 2 back to back nuts to get it snugged without tightening it against the manifold, removed the nuts and reinstalled the proper nut and torqued it down against the manifold. reinstalled the air tube (reuseing the gaskets from it) and reconnected the pipes. Tested and all was well.

While you're in there, you might as well do them all the first time instead of doing them as they strip on their own. Easier to do them all at once than waiting for it to happen again and tear it all apart to do over. The others will strip sooner or later, ask me how I know. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="images/icons/tongue.gif" />

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Esquire812:
<strong>*I would suggest bagging the Helicoil idea all together and install SB Chevy rocker studs instead. Got this tip from Tim @DOA as well as Ted-Engnbldr. Ted sent me up 4 of the studs with nuts, I retapped the stripped holes to 7/16", applied a little sealer to the threads as insurance and was done in less than 30 minutes doing 2 holes. No problems at all. ~Darin</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">How did you use a GM rocker arm stud to replace the exhaust manifold bolts?

Don't GM rocker arm studs look like this ?
<img src="http://store.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/arp-134-7101.jpg" alt=" - " />

They looked more like these, nowhere for a wrench to grab onto. 3/8" one side and 7/16-14 for mounting in the head. <img src="http://www.csp-shop.com/shop/images/artikel/12531.jpg" alt=" - " />

I used the GM studs and the overall low cost was a major selling point to me. No helicoils to mess with. Just re-tapped the hole to 7/16-16 and away she went. No fuss no muss! Torqued em down and then I was able to hear the noisy tranny input bearing! Now I need a W56 top loader tranny!
Danny

I found the studs in a Mr.Gasket online catalog. Wish I knew how to work with that stupid Adobe stuff so I could post a picture. Anyways here is what is written along side the picture:

SCREW-IN ROCKER ARM STUDS
Made from alloy steel, this stud is ideal for use with hi-performance cams in cars used primarily on the street. The studs are concentric to keep the rockers, push-rod and valve stems in alignment. No jam nut is required. Simply tap the boss and screw in the studs. Fits Chevrolet 283 thru 400 and Ford with a 7/16"-14 threaded hole in head. Use 3/8" Sure-Lock rocker arm adjusters. 7/16"-14 tap required. Set of 16 without oil hole, 2-5/16" long.................................... 1076

MrGasket

look under fasteners in the first catalog shown in upper lift with ramair on the cover.
~Darin <img border="0" alt="[Baby]" title="" src="graemlins/baby.gif" />