I've received email from somebody awhile ago asking same question about 98Montero. Here is what I had to reply
Only difference is you have to remove free wheeling hub assembly:
In order to remover rotor from front hub you need to remove hub/rotor assembly from the spindle.
Here are steps to do that.
1. Secure vehicle on jack stands and remove the wheel.
2. Take of small cap in the middle of hub and remove lock ring and adjustment washer (it is small be careful not to loose it).
3. Remove six hex bolts connecting hub flange to hub. Take the hub flange off.
Here is the difference you got free wheeling hub, but still six bolts4. Remove brake calipers assembly.
5. Remove two bolts holding lock washer. Remove the washer.
6. Remove spindle nut. You will need special spindle nut socket with two pins in order to do that. Now you can pull hub/rotor assembly off.
7. Remove six bolts holding rotor to hub.
Reassemble is in opposite order.
Make sure that insert bolts with heads pointing to outer face of the hub when you connect rotor back to hub. If you put them opposite (nuts out) the threads of bolts will protrude above face of the hub. You will not be able to secure wheel properly since it will rest on ends of bolts rather then on the surface of the hub. This may lead to severe wheel damage and failure of wheel studs.
Since hub was removed from spindle you will have to adjust bearing preload.
You will need special socket and torque wrench for that.
1. Tighten spindle nut to 94-140 lbs.
2. Completely undo it to 0 lbs.
3. Tighten to 25 lbs. then unscrew 30-40 degrees back.
4. Measure force necessary to turn the hub by pulling on wheel stud. It should be 1- 4 lb. if it is more then that need to redo the procedure.
5. Make sure that holes in lock washer line up with holes in lock nut. If they do not line up you can turn lock nut within 20 degrees (about half diameter of the hole in lock washer) to achieve that. If you turn more readjusting is necessary.
P.S. You can read about adjusting of bearing preload here:
Bearing Adjustment.You will find pictures of free wheeling hub removal there as well.It is unlikely that you will find spindle socket in parts store. Since I didn't have one readily available as well. I found a homegrown solution. The 3/4-1 ton front axle spindle nut socket with outer diameter of about 66mm can be found at any auto part store for $9.99. There is only one difference: Mitsubishi socket has two pins and one I got had six. Well! There goes my angle grinder. I ended up with two rather short pins on the socket but they proved to be sufficient. My new socket allowed me to torque spindle nut to required torque.
Personally I prefer not to turn my rotors unless there is severe grooving on them. Moderate groves caused by normal wear do not impair your braking capabilities. Turning rotors often significantly reduce lifetime of them. Thinner rotors also overheat more which can lead to wrapping or brake failure in server duty conditions. I never turned mine 134000 miles they are still within the specs on thickness and I have more then adequate braking performance. But it is up to your personal preference.
We had discussion on that spindle nut socket for bearing adjustment here (got couple pictures):
Spindle socket tool
