I'm doing CV boots today. I got the shaft torn down and cleaned. Everything looks fine except for the inside of the diff flange piece. Its scored where the 3 rollers of the tulip joint (inner CV joint) contact the inside.

Here are pictures... Is it ok to re-use?

<img src="http://pics.montypics.com/jx94148/2002-10-11/dscf0002.jpg" alt=" - " />

<img src="http://pics.montypics.com/jx94148/2002-10-11/dscf0003.jpg" alt=" - " />

Thanks as always. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="images/icons/cool.gif" />

I don't know. But I have another question - do they normally show the evidence of a lot of heat on the outside (like it's been torched)?

I think I would considering just buying a whole different axle. YOu can find a cheapy rebuilt at any local autoparts store for around $60. For a little cheaper you can find a used one in a wrecking yard.

It looks to me like it ran out of grease, which is a little unusual on the inner axle joint. And I don't think the scoring is normal, either. Especially on a part time wheel drive. I sure don't recall any of my inner CVs looking that way.

If your really short on cash, you could probably get away with it, since it's not your primary drive and you always have rear wheel drive, if it breaks.

Good luck.

<small>[ October 12, 2002, 03:18 AM: Message edited by: Brian894X4 ]</small>

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Jeff the marmot:
<strong>I don't know. But I have another question - do they normally show the evidence of a lot of heat on the outside (like it's been torched)?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">I know the solid axle Birfields look like that, probably a result of the heat treating they undergo. They are heat treated to increase hardness for longer wear. However that tends to make the steel more brittle. The new "Longfields" are re-heat treaded to make them softer but less brittle.

In my only experience with one case, I used the fingernail test.... It was on a Subaru that I had used a CV boot kit and CV grease from Advance Auto (never do!) The grease was so poor the joints starting popping under load as if there was no grease in it..

Tore it back down, bought the more expensive kit and grease from the dealer and rebuilt it with no problems.. It had light scoring that I could see, but when running my fingernail down the metal, I didn't feel any deep ridges that the joint could hang/bind on, and make the popping noises (of eventual self destruction). If there's deep grooves/ridges, it's probably toast!

I'm not hearing an emphatic NO, so its going back in. If it pops or makes bad noises i'll know what to fix. There is kind of a cut out on the diff output flange to make removal and installation of the shaft a little easier if you line the cut out up at 5 o'clock. I don't remember reading about that.

I am using the Genuine Toyota boot kit Part #04438-35022. Its both boots, 4 clamps, snap ring and 2 kinds of grease. The brownish grease goes in the inner joint, the black stuff goes in the outer joint.

I learned everything I needed to know about this job on this website. The info available here saved me $200 in labor. (Just called Firestone and got a quote for fun.) Their explanation was quite funny actually. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="images/icons/wink.gif" /> Thanks to everyone for having all of this info just a click away. <img border="0" alt="[Hillbilly]" title="" src="graemlins/notooth.gif" />