My shock mount relocation project went south, well southwest at least.(It's still drivable at least) The first time, a friend relocated them for me but did not weld them on real well. (I still appreciate his help though) Then the drivers side shock mount tore off. A muffler shop were I frequent welded it back on for me REALLY well, only in the wrong spot. To get the bolt through the shock and the bracket I had to ream out the hole in the bracktet out ALOT. And now the alignment or something is scewampus (or out of wack) and the steering wheel is very loose and jiggles back and forth.

There are 3 things I would like to come from this post:
1) Find new A-arms
2)Find out how to relocate the bracket with the A-arm OFF the truck.
3)Tell people the right way to relocate with the A-arm ON the truck.

So How for back would I need to move the shock mount in order to allow for DOR tie-rod sheildz and for the larger than stock RANCHO 5000's?
Does the mount need to go straight back or does it need to go to one side or the other to compensate for a variable that I don't know of?

The best way I think to relocate the shock mount with the A-arm intact is to:
a) Remove the lower bolt from the shock and wire the shock up and outta the way.
b) Using a sawsall cut the braket off that holds the shock to the A-arm.
c) Weld the bracket to a piece of 3/16 plate steel that is 1/2 in. larger on approx. all sides than the bracket. Weld it well, on the inside and out.
d) Using a grinder with a sanding disc, grind down to bare metal the surface on the A-arm that is to be welded.
e) Install your desired shocks and your DOR tie-rod sheildz
f) Bolt the bracket to the shock. allow the shock to move [color:"red"]straight[/color] down touching the A-arm.
g) Then allowing for some movement of the tie rod, move the mount back so there is about 1/2 in. between the shock and the backside of the t-r shieldz.
h) Tack the plate (w/bracket) to the A-arm
i) Remove shock from it's bracket, and remove the outer side of the t-rod and wire it up outta the way.
j) now take your time in welding every side of the plate to the A-arm
k) Put everything back together.

Hope this helps others to not screw up their project.
And I hope some other 'others' can help me get mine fixed.

Caleb-

You pretty much have the concept down pat. I would suggest using a piece of u-shaped steel or better yet, a piece of rectangular tube with the ID the same as the width of the bushing in the shock. Drill the proper hole through it and cut off one side to give you a u-shaped bracket.

The problem comes when the shock is moved back. It is no longer perpendicular to the arm. The bracket will have to be tipped forward to match the angle of the shock. Mine are not perfect and getting the lower bolt into the bracket is difficult. You may or may not need to have a flat piece under the bracket as you describe. There is not a whole lot of force on that particular point, unless you are topping out the shocks (and if you are, you have other issues to address).

Good Luck,
Michael