This is pasted out of an email I sent a guy converting his prerunner. This is verified information.


Removing the hubs from the spindle on a
Tacoma is a royal *****. They're pressed into a sealed
one-piece wheel bearing and let me tell you, if you
don't have at least a 50 ton press and the where with
all to fabricate a tool to support the spindle...you
WILL NOT GET IT OUT. There's 3 different hubs for a
4wd chassis Tacoma...the manual type, which has
internal roller bearings to support the stub axle
(because when the hub is unlocked, the axle is still
inside the rotating hub) and 6 studs on the outside
face for the locking hub to bolt to, and a threaded
shoulder on the inside face with a large gland nut
that holds it secure in the bearing. Then there's the
ADD hub which is splined on the inside and has no
studs on the outside face. The stub axle simply bolts
into it with a single large nut, like a FWD car. (the
outter cv joint on an ADD axle is different than the
manual hub cv joint) No gland nut on the inside
because the stub axle acts as the securing device for
this setup. Then there's the Prerunner hub, which is
basically a 'blank' manual type hub. Has the threaded
shoulder with gland nut on the inside but it has no
bearings installed on the inner bore for the stub axle
and no studs or drilled holes on the outter face for
the manual hub to bolt to. I would HIGHLY recommend
you locate yourself a plain jane reg cab 4cyl 4wd
truck to donate the front axle...it'll have the 4.10
gears and manual hubs. Its rare to find a V6 truck
with manual hubs. Take the third member and both axles
with the complete spindle assembly with the hubs
installed. If you get it like that, it'll only take
you about an hour to install it on your truck. The
spindles are a breeze to get off...just un bolt your
brake caliper and remove the rotor...and secure the
caliper up out of the way. Then remove the nut on the
UPPER ball joint and the 4 bolts that hold the lower
balljoing/steering knuckle to the bottom of the
spindle. Give the bottom of the upper control arm a
swift knock and the balljoint will pop loose and the
spindle/hub assy will be free. This entire operation
takes minutes. [When you remove the spindles off the
4wd donor (if you have to) you'll have to disassemble
the hub first...to free up the stub axle...or you
could remove the spindles with axles still in them,
you'd just have to unbolt the ball joints first and
get the spindle freed up...and then knock the inner
cv's loose from the third member. This is kinda
awkward, but it'll save you some time.] Then, the axle
shafts just 'snap' into the third member. The inner
cv's are splined and they have a groove for an
internal snap clip. You'll have to apply a moderate
blow to the back side of the inner cv to knock it
loose...then it'll just slide out. You'll have to
disconnect the sway bar link and move it out of the
way to make room for the inner cv to slide past when
you remove the axle. Then the third memeber is just
held in by 2 or three bolts...can't remember. It's
easy to get out. Your prerunner will already have the
correct oil pan on it to clear the third member.