I've been out playing all day today. The old truck is just amazing with my big new mod. I ran Hackett gulch and Longwater gulch in Teller county which are the rated "most difficult." I had no difficulty at all. I didn't hear a wheel spinning all day and I didn't have to go around any obsticles. I walked right up a few hills I have never made before. There is no comparison between the new setup and the old. I'm thrilled. I'll only need to use the winch on other people's trucks from now on. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="images/icons/grin.gif" />

Sounds like fun. It will be another two weeks before mine is completely done. Today I put the dashboard back together after installing the diff lock switch, LED, a master switch (down by the parking brake) and a new Toyota CD player. I was able to bench-test the locker today to confirm that the locking sleeve moved in and out. One thing I noticed was that my dashboard LED never stopped blinking, so it may not be locking completely. I spun the ring gear by hand and it still did not give me a solid green. Hopefully this is the last issue I have to address.

BTW, the new stereo (the upper one) is from a '99 Tacoma Limited. It plugged right into my 1994 wiring harness. Plug and play baby. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="images/icons/wink.gif" />

<img src="http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/forum/dash.jpg" alt="" />

Isn't it mind-blowing how great a locker is? I appreciate the open-diff days simply for making me learn how to drive (kind of analogous to IFS then SAS); but I will never go offroad w/o a locker again. It makes a lot of trails and obstacles so much easier, which in turn is easier on you and your rig; and it opens up new trails and obstacles as well.

Ken, did you get the computer, button, and wiring from a dealer or a 'recycler'? And how much? MIne worked ok with the home made controler but now i'm blowing the fuse and can't unlock or find the short.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by jx94148:
<strong>Ken, did you get the computer, button, and wiring from a dealer or a 'recycler'? And how much? MIne worked ok with the home made controler but now i'm blowing the fuse and can't unlock or find the short.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">I bought the dash switch and ECU from KLF (Ken Flesher) on this list for $60. The wiring is pretty easy once you figure out what you're doing. I spent about an hour studying the factory wiring diagram and ended up hooking mine up much different from the other two people I know that used the factory ECU. I would be happy to scan a copy of my diagram, if you're interested. Heck, everything even works!!!

I'd love to have a copy of your diagram. Thanks. If you have other alternatives i'll look at them to. Thanks Ken.

Cool, lockers are the best.

Have you ever been to www.colorado4x4.org?

I'm almost ready to hit the trails again. We should hook up. If you haven't been to that board check it out. A few good toy build ups going on over there. I've got a couple threads going on my latest mods. Always lot's of trips being planned too.

Later,

Steve

<small>[ 07 April 2002, 01:00 AM: Message edited by: yarddog ]</small>

YourMom,

I suspect your electric motor isn't engaging the locker fully. Fully enough to lock, but not enough to trip the lock sensor. Most lilkely your sliding geared rail and electric motor aren't synchronized properly. It might be off just by one tooth. I would lock the locker, unpower everything so the ECU doesn't more the fork. Then pull the electric motor, slide over the geared rail one tooth. Put everything back together and try again. Just lift a tire off the ground, and have a buddy spin the tire while you lock/unlock the locker to confirm.

jx94148,

You might be the other way around, it is driving the locker to lock to far, which jams the electric motor, causing increased current draw. Only way to unjam the motor is to pull over the cover, and give the gear a pry. It jams against an alumnium ridge under neath the cover. Don't take apart the electric motor itself, just the part where the worm gears connects to the gears.

Matt - Sounds like the locker turned out great! Congrats!

Ken - I like your button/LED setup you have, very nice!

I'm taking notes...

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Karl:
<strong>YourMom,

I suspect your electric motor isn't engaging the locker fully. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Before I start adjusting teeth on the actuating fork I need to specify that the 3rd member is not yet installed in the vehicle. (If that makes a difference.) I spun the ring gear by hand hoping I would get a lock confirmation, but it didn't happen.

When I hit the 'lock' button, I can hear the relays in the ECU click, meanwhile I can watch the fork move into what appears to be the locked position, and instantly the relays click off. If the locker was truely not locked, wouldn't you expect the the relays to keep sending power to the motor for a short time before clicking off?