I read an article a while back (damned if I can remember where or when) about modifying an old Toyota 1-ton rear axle for use on the front. It involved cutting off the outer ends of the axle assembly off and grafting on Chevy <gag><choke> U-joints, steering knuckles, brakes, and stub axles. Apparently, no existing Toyota front hardware was suited to fit the one-ton axle. It seemed like fairly straightforward work for a shop that regularly built axles.

This might be a way into a front Mitsu-based SAS that preserves (as much as possible) Mitsubishi strength and "purity", if you happen to know the right people to do the work. The downside would be the GM parts.

Ahmina continue rummaging through my magazines to see if I can find the article...as I said, it actually seemed feasible, and I don't know why something similar couldn't be done with a Mitsu rear axle.

Why go to all that work cutting, and fabbing together an axle from several different manufacturers? Plus, you'd have to find gears that match up to the rear. I don't think Toyotas have 4.62 or 4.88, which is most common on Mitsu's. A Dana44 from early model Wagoneers fit right in, no axle mods needed, and have 4.88's available.
I'd never heard of a Toyota 1 ton axle, what did they come on??

I'm proposing doing this sort of procedure to a MITSU rear axle, not a Toyota...and it's no more work than a lot of the Yeepers go to for their axles, really. So many of them build the damn things from scratch...literally! It's bizarre that Jeeps have SUCH an aftermarket that you can build a brand-new Jeep from scratch, without a single part of it that ever saw the inside of a Willys, AMC, or Chrysler plant.

But yes, it'd be a lot of work, but certainly feasible, given what else is done on a regular basis.

...and yes, a Wagoneer D44 would work, but it's not a MITSU axle...maybe I'm just being stupid, but I think it's important to maintain as much Mitsu in our Monteros as we can. Yeah, we can drop a GM 4.3 with a GM auto, dual Atlas transfer cases, and D44 axles in...other 4WD vehicle owners do it all the time. But once you've done THAT, what do you have left that's still Mitsu? How can we say that the Montero/Pajero/Raider is a superior offroad vehicle, when all you have left of it is the frame and sheet metal? It's one thing to IMPROVE on the existing mechanicals or to replace stuff with other Mitsu parts (for example, Starquest turbo engines in the older Monteros are a GREAT solution), but to just REPLACE major assemblies, ESPECIALLY with American parts...well, it bothers me. It's UNSEEMLY, AND I think we can do better.

Besides, I'd think you'd have MUCH less windup if both differentials were absolutely identical, not just with *similar* ratios.

Toyota made 2WD one-ton pickups...not sure of the range of years. One of the engineers at the BoR here has one...looks like a normal Toyota from the outside, but has a "1 Ton" decal on the bed and tailgate. If I remember correctly, the axle shaft itself doesn't bear much of the weight...all it has to do is drive the wheel. There's a special name for this sort of axle, but I don't remember what it is...and something about this sort of axle makes it very well-suited to a front SAS conversion.

Speaking of SAS. What would be an ideal axle swap for a later Gen II Monty. From what I know, they have 4.262 gears (if i remember correctlly) Of course I would upgrade to 4.90's if I go any bigger than 33". BUT, if I ever get to those 38", then 4.90's wouldnt be low enough to wheel with. In that case, I would have to replace both front and rear axles, losing the factory rear locker. Its still all up in the air, just gettin ideas before it happens, if it ever happens, that is.

Any Comments??

later,
Angelo

Sure you could go to all the lengths to "stay monty" but why trouble yourself so much? What steering arms would you use on your rear monty axle? Would they be from the D44? Plus if you went 44 you'd had every aftermarket thing you need from CTM's to a gear ratio that works.

In my belief as you start to modify a vehicle it's to make it more capable and all around better. You could put a monty axle up there, but is it worth it? All the labor and not to mention the cost? As Lee had said earlier, just toss a D44 under there and call it good.

For my SAS i stayed toyota because it is just easier. Yeah i run all toy running gear but that's because i don't have the time to fab something else into my rig. Toyota stuff just fits.

In no way am i throwing your idea in the trash. But it's just logical to do things easier and cheaper than more expensive and much much harder.

Christian

BTW: We're (Lil_mule (vince) and I) going to Moab May 27-June 1st. Figure if you're in Grand J, then you might want to make the trip. Let me know via email. cstylz200@aol.com

That would be a lot of work! And what axle shafts would you plan to use? They'd have to be custom made shafts. The Mitsu rear is a center pumpkin, and you'd have to retube it to be a drivers side drop pumpkin, and then have custom axle shafts made. Not only a lot of work, but a lot of money.
And it would suck if you broke an axle shaft....now you need another custom one made.


Personally I've never bought into all that "ours is better crap". No matter what vehicle forum you go to, they will all say "ours is better". I think it's bull crap. The Mitsu's are good capable vehicles. The best??? I don't believe so.



If you'd use a rear Mitsu with 4.875 gears, and a D44 front with 4.88 gears, you'd never, ever, ever know they were not exact.

I have to agree with you on that one, but why not flip over a toyota front axle that way you get a D44 strength front axle with strong birfield joints not the crap U-joints that come flying out of every Bronco.

You can also get 4.88 and 5.29 reverse cut diffs from a 60,70 and 80 series Land Cruiser that fit the pickup axle but I'm not sure about the 4.62

Crap ujoints, lol.

I will take u-joints over birfields any day. If you flip the yota axle over, how do you intend on keeping the internals properly oiled. It isnt designed to run upside down.

For all the money you would spend to get a custom axle, you could build a dana 60 with alot of goodies.

I dont mean to be a stick in the mud, but the mitsu axle isnt as strong as every one makes it out to be. For our aplication, which is low torque high gears and low hp, sure. But it is a 9inch rear, same as a ford 9, nothing new or special. A dana 60, or a 14 bolt is stronger than a mitsubishi axle any day. Machine the bottom of a 60 or 14 bolt housing, and you wont be losing much clearance under the diff either.

A sas is already going to need alot of complicated custom work, dont shoot yourself in the foot and make it any harder.

I was actualy thinking more than I was typing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

What I meant was to cut the diff casing and knuckles from the toy axle and flip them to fit. That way you have stock everything from the toy. If you want to cut and grind and make it a hassle it's probably one of the best ways to go (not the only) since you keep everything stock and can get 5.29 diffs wich I'm not so sure the Jeep axle offers.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Never heard of them! Everyone I see runing birfields complains all the time about them breaking! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Also, you cannot "flip" an axle and run it upside down, or backwards.