here's how to do near perfect alignment YOURSELF
dunno how your unusual lift will affect it, but it shouldn't be much
if not perfect the first time, at least you will know which way to tweak to get it perfect
write down your current settings first !
takes a floor jack and 2' level
can be done without floor jack, but not as e z
level could be shorter or longer
only for ifs of course
estimate the distance between the end of the bottom and top a arm ball joints
studs by holding a tape up near em
get the caster for your vehicle
1 1/2 degrees positive for my 88
positive means the bottom is forward of the top
i think, lol
figure out the distance in inches that your caster is from verticle with this
C=3.14xD
C is the distance you want
3.14 is pi of course
D is double the distance between ball joint centers represented by the distance
you estimated
take your value for C and multiply by caster degrees over 360
this is the horizontal distance of caster you are going to use to set your
caster:
it's actually the percentage of the circumference of the circle you just
figured, but it should be close enuf to wurk fine
with 4" of lift, i figured 1 1/2 degrees of camber is .418"
loosen the nuts on the lower a arm bolts completely and the wheel some
jack up under the a arm as close as you can to the wheel
mine won't go under the spindle, do it if yours will tho
take off the wheel and jack back down till the hub is same height as back
wheel's
(on level ground)
this simulates the wheel being on the ground weighting the suspension
(sort of!)
make sure the steering is straight ahead
line up the level to measure plumb (vertical) with the center of the lower a arm
ball joint stud with your eye perpindicular to the center of the hub
hold the level against the hub while you make it plumb and line up the center of
the stud
now sight up the level to the top a arm ball joint stud
you want it to measure the distance you figured for your camber
there should be a gap over to the center of the stud from plumb since we want
positive caster
(i assume)
adjust the cammed bolts on lower a arm mounts to suit while checking camber with
the level on the disc or hub
set slightly on the positive side since suspension will change it with wheel on
(this may throw your caster off a little too, i haven't figured out how much
yet, but if you can get the jack under the spindle it may not)
once you have caster and camber in spec. tighten the a arm bolts TIGHT and put
the wheel on and YOU ARE DONE !!!
these bolts will loosen if not real tight !!!
caster should be the same on both sides
i was amazed when i double checked by measuring from the lower a arm spindle arm
to the rear spring hanger where it makes an point and both sides measured
perfectly the same !
so, i'm assuming this method wurks pretty well...
chilton lists considerable range for caster and camber on mine
playing with caster it seems that a wide range will wurk ok
measure toe by putting a tape across the center of the front wheels first front
then back
the difference is your toe
smaller in front is toe in
slight toe in is probly best
1/16th of an inch or less
if after all this you have wander or play in the steering i'm thinking it's play
in parts
ball joints, idler or steer arm, a arm bushings, wheel bearings
if your rear axle is not square it will steer to one side
measure to same spot on both sides of frame near front to check
has to be the same length or something's amiss
