I have a 92 4x4, with a 22re, 3'body 2'suspension, 5.29 gears w/rear detroit locker riding on 35's. I am fixing to add a taller suspension lift, and want to add a locker to the front while I have it apart. After coughing up the money for the lift I won't have much left for a locker. Will a locker that uses the existing carrier like the lockright or the quick lock hold up. Also I don't want to break my carrier either. If anyone has any experience with front lockers for the ifs please let me know.

They will work with no harm, you may have a problem with steering some times a non-selectable locker up front makes it real hard to steer in 4WD.

When I had the IFS I had a Detroit EZ Locker in the front. It did increase the steering radius but it was well worth the extra 3 point turn or two compared to being open.

I found the steering to be a lot easier with the EZ Locker than the ARB I now have up front. The ARB is really a bear to steer without some sort of assist.

You will need to be careful running a front locker and 35's with your IFS. Just keep it easy on the right foot and you will lessen the chance of ruining a CV.

I run a lock rite up front IFS with 33"s. The effect to the steering doesn't really bother me. Most of my wheeling is desert (deep sand or rocks) but I have wheeled for 8+ hours without a problem. Of course you have to hold on with both hands so the wheel doesn't "jerk" out when you hit a rut or something, but honestly, as long as your not sitting dead still and trying to crank your wheel, It's barely a difference at all. Might be a different story for rock crawling or another type of wheeling. My .02

Sid

I don't think you're giving the air locker a fair shake here. The ARB is a full (real) locker (much stronger) and the EZ is a part-time (lunchbox) locker. Both perform the same function when going straight, but when turning on extremely high traction surfaces (slick rock) the ARB will remain locked and will require a lot more Armstrong than the lunchbox, as the EZ will normally unlock when cornering. A full-time locker also gives a little more feedback to the steering wheel when locked but that's not really a big deal. The EZ is a great part-time locker and is a great performer for the price but it's not in the same class as the ARB or the full Detroit locker and doesn't exhibit all of the characterics as the "Big Brother" lockers. Lockers + big tires + high traction surfaces on an IFS setup does = to a few driveline problems, but nothing that a few tools and spares parts can't overcome in an afternoon. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

My feeling is, if it's tough to steer with the ARB engauged, then you're on a high traction surface and don't need the locker to be engauged. On low traction surfaces, when you need the ARB, steering is easy.

A little off topic, but why would you need a "taller" lift? Unless you plan on dumping the body lift and going with a full 4" IFS kit or something. A lot of us who've run both IFS and solid axles will tell you that lift uquals instability and extra lift with IFS equals "alot" of instability. You should have no problem clearing your 35s with your current set up. If you do, then do some trimming in the fenders.

Good, now that we have that problem solved and we saved you a bunch of money by not buying more lift, put that money into a front ARB locker. You'll be much happier for it. With an ARB, you'll have all the advantages of a open diff. You can run flat out in the desert, on the fireroads or anything else and have nice stock safe steering. Then when you need a locker up front, just flip a switch and you'll have "real" 4WD and one of the strongest locking diffs you can buy.

Of all the money I've spent on my truck and all the things I've done, the one thing that I appreciate the most is my front ARB. Because 4WD isn't just for rockcrawling and 10 mph or less.

Just my opinion. Good luck.

In reply to why I want to add more lift. I'm getting a great deal on a used lift (1,000 new, my cost 250) my tires do rub up front, and I don't wany to cut my fenders. (just had a new paint job) I also want to return my torsion bars to the stock height for a smoother ride. The truck is used for trail riding and playing in the mud in north Florida, and south Georgia. No rock crawling, desert running or racing where instability is a problem. Besides isn't four wheeling supposed to be adventurous and "unstable". I would like to add the ARB in the front, but cannot justify the cost. (angry wife "you spent how much on that, just to make one more tire spin") They just don't understand. I appreciate everyones input however and have a lot to think about now. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" />