I don't know if you've seen my post over in tech re: my Electrical Short / Questions

In any event, I found the short. The BLK/YLW wire was burnt in half right where it leaves the harness plug to the purge solenoid and the RED/WHT wire was chafed ...

I cut the offending bit out and went shopping ... I went to three junk yards (Wester U-Pull-It, Sommer's and Tear-A-Part) ... No Joy <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I found '90 and earlier Troops, Rodeos and Pups none of which have EVAP systems with a charcoal cannister and purge solenoid from which I could harvest the plug I was looking for ... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Here's were you all could help me if you are willing ... I'm going to have to call all the junkyards around the area for the part, but I don't know what model and year to tell them to look for ... '96 and up obviously <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" /> but I'd like the largest sampling possible to increase my odds ....

Would you all with Troops, Rodeos and Amigos between the years of '90 and '96 take a look under your rigs on the right / passenger side just in front of the gas tank and tell me if you see a charcoal cannister ... It'll be about the size of a shoe box with three vacuum lines running into it. One of the vacuum lines will be plugged into the solenoid unit right next to it on which you will also see a two wire plug (the part I'm looking for) ...

Please post back with the year and model and whether or not you found a charcoal cannister, purge solenoid EVAP unit ...

Thanks all! Hopefully, with this info, I'll be able to find the part much quicker <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

didn't see anything that matched your description under our '92 or '94 Rodeo.

The charcoal canister you are describing is known as the vapor canister. My '97 has it.

Thanks Rich and Steve for taking a look ... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

No on the '92 and '94 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> ...

Any '95 or '95 1/2 care to chip in (you are my last hope ...)??

Got a pic of the plug? These are pretty universal. I wouldn't be too concerned with finding one from the evap canister specifically. Check the other solenoids at the junkyard, even from other makes and models. Odds are, you'll find a matching plug without having to look too hard.

--Dan

Just a thought, but you might wanna call Merlin @ St. Charles for the plug.

Unfortuantely, I don't have a digital camera. Maybe I could draw a pic - I wonder how crayon will scan? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" /> bad idea anyway, I can't even draw a staight line with a ruler.

Interesting thought on the "universality" of the solenoid and plug though. I saw ISUZU stamped on the solenoid and assumed it would be a ZU only application.



I will check into this, because my "stealer" quoted me $300 bones for the whole rear body harness (man, that's alot of connections!!) I assumed it was only available in this form.
Worth checking out.

Thank all <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

If all you need is a weatherproof connector - these come in single to 6 wires. The ends crimp onto the wires, then are fitted inside the housing.



This one is Painless Wiring, I'm sure lots of other electrical supply places have similar connectors.

If the wires aren't long enough to just crimp the connector on both ends and plug in, you'll need to solder or crimp on more wire. My apologies if you're already familiar with the process, it sounded like maybe you weren't sure.

The connections can be soldered or crimped. For soldering, check out your local Radio Shack for a soldering iron and some rosin core solder. If you have one of those big soldering guns, that will work for this type of connection as well. Strip and clean the ends, slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the wire, twist the wire ends together, touch the wires with the heated iron, touch the solder to the wires a short distance fron the iron and let the solder melt and flow into the joint.

Don't melt the solder directly with the iron. You want the wire hot enough to melt the solder. The solder should look shiny when done. Cover with a light coat of petroleum jelly or chassis grease, then slip the heat shrink over the joint and shrink per the instructions.

Crimp connections are pretty straight forward, but I would again coat the wire ends with some kind of grease before inserting into the connector, give it a good tug to make sure the connection is solid after crimping, then cover with the heat shrink. You can get crimp splices that are made with heat shrink ends built in.

The grease and heat shrink are kind of overkill, but I think they're a good idea, especially for exposed connections.

Good Luck,

Jay

Well I spoke with Merlin today - No Joy (again) - this EVAP plug to the purge solenoid is not available as an individual piece. The best he could do - and its a HECK of a lot better than my local dealer - was $110 for the whole rear harness. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />



Unfortuantely, no ... the short occurred too close to where the wires leave the plug ... not enough room to crimp or solder anything on - I'll need to find a replacement EVAP system plug with enough good wire to do so - good thought though!

I also really appreciate your info on soldering these wires together ...



- you're right - I wasn't at all sure about this process (but now I'm not!!) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Thanks for the beta!! Leave it to a guy with a screen name of PYRO to give you good info on "melting" stuff <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

?? Is this "rosin core" solder the same as "lead free"??

I've put out a call to my local ZU'tahn's to see if anyone has access to a digital camera. Hopefully I'll be able to post back soon with some PICS!!

Jim, I have a digi camera if you need to use it. Let me know and we will work something out.

Oh and lead free may have rosin, but most of the rosin core stuff I used before has the lead sheething.