Yes sir!

Andreas

Nice Job, Andreas. I'm thinking of replacing the same springs on my 96 2wd, how much did the parts cost and other than a Dealer, does the regular parts store have it (like Autozone/Kragen) ? I have replaced the shocks w/ bilstein and had some improvement in ride quality (most noticeably on handling) but still gives me a very bumpy ride on cement freeway. Will this help providing a smoother ride? Since yours is a 4WD, the part numbers you posted will not match the parts for 2WD - Is this correct? I did the replacement of the front shocks, but I had my mechanic replace the rear coz' it looks difficult to take the top nut off the shocks. Is it true that if you lower the axel down to put in the springs , the brake line could get damage?

Tedster,
You can mix and match suspension components for the 1996 - 2002 model years until the sun goes down. For the most part, all of the hardware is interchangable. Things such as ABS sensors, traction control, lockers, etc, changed over the years, but spring seats and shock mounts are common.

If you are interested in doing this, the springs were around $220 shipped, from Jay Marks (Champion) Toyota in Texas. I dealt with Mike C. Simply specify that want all four coils for a '99 4WD, auto, V6 4Runner. Even easier, supply these parts numbers: Front right: 48131-35400, Front left: 48131-35350, Rear (both): 48231-35210. I don't think you could purchase these new elsewhere (other than from a toyota dealer). If you want a used set of '99 coils, contact drag1 on this forum.

Yes, the rear axle needs to be gently lowered with a floor jack in order to swap the springs. The frame of the truck should be sitting on jack stands. Then you undo the lower shock mounting bolt and unbolt both sides of the sway bar end links. Slip a floor jack under the differential housing, slide the shocks off the lower mounts, and then gently let the axle down. I also undid the brake line hard mounting on the axle tube to give a bit more wiggle room. Then its a matter of having someone push down on the brake drum while you manuever the coil spring out.

With you rough riding post from earlier, I'd recommend getting the '01-'02 bumps stops and isolator cones from a dealer. The bump stops will be shorter than your current ones and reside on the frame, just over either end of the axle tube. These determine the ultimate amount of upwards travel your rear axle will achieve. The isolator cones are soft rubber cones that plop into the tops of the rear coil springs and dampen the movement of the truck as you go through a big dip in the road or carry a heavy load. Take a look at your rear springs - my guess is that your truck does not have the cones, and that the bumps stops are of such a length that they are within a couple of inches of your axle housing.

Let me know what you decide to do.

Andreas

So it looks like you got 3/4 -1" anyway, and only spent about $200 to do it. And the springs are real Toyota OEM quality instead of the aftermarket stuff that may or may not go slack in a year. To me, this makes a lot more sense than spending $400 on something like the PP progressive 1" springs...

I checked the measurements again today after putting a few miles on the truck. The change is a good solid inch, if not a hair more. Could have something to do with bind in the bushings when the truck was first lowered, etc. Hey, either way, I'm quite happy with the outcome. Once the 275/70 Revos go on Monday, I'll give her a good wash and call it done for a while!

Your thought regarding OEM quality was one reason I went with the Toyota springs. The other is that for some reason the PP springs felt a little on the soft n' bouncy side for me. It may simply be due to the longer length of the PP coils. Regardless, Chris' (calg3) truck looks perfect with the PP springs. Who knows, maybe I'll wake up one morning, and a set of Cornfed or Protech spacers will be waiting at the front door...

Andreas

I believe the PP springs are progressive vs the Toyota coils being straight wound. That means the PP springs will be softer initially but stiffen up with compression. I think it also means that you can't shim them with spacers to change the ride height like a staight wound spring...

You are right about the progressive vs straight coils. That is one reason I went with the PP springs. I also wanted them for when I tow my trailer. I knew I would never put a spacer lift on my truck, mine is as high as it will ever go $$$. Also, it helps when you get all 4 PP springs used for only $160. I could not afford them new. The PP springs are best utilized with the Bilsteins, I think. OME's seem to work best when you use OME springs and shocks from what I have heard.

Andreas, one more thing. Keep an eye on your CV boots just in case they get a little weepy after the height adjustment. Mine did that for the first few weeks until I tightened them back up again.

Andreas, I have a 2WD '99, the part numbers you gave is for a 4WD. Is there a diffrent part number for '99 2WD coils or I can use the '99 4WD coils for my '96 2WD? (I also have replaced the shocks w/ 2WD bilstein shocks, there is a diffrent set of bilstein for 4WD)

Tedster,
See my reply a few lines up. You can do as you please when it comes to swapping 2WD and 4WD coils, but if you are seeking a better quality ride, and a bit of lift, swap in the coils that I did. Remember, my truck is a '01, which sits noticeably lower than the '99 version. I wanted it to be at the '99 height - thus the new springs. An added plus is that the new springs have an additional wind, which equals a bit more flex in daily situations. Coupled with the Bilsteins I've installed, the ride has improved tenfold.

If you were to swap in '99 2WD coils, you would probably be at about the same height. Not worth the money, and makes no sense. Find out if Bilstein lists the same shock numbers for 2WD and 4WD 4Runners. If so, you're set. Then you can get the '99 4WD coils and be done with it. Maybe email Bilstein directly, or contact Shox.com.

Andreas