Going in next week to get a one piece as the shudders have drove me mad.

Just need to know if there is anything I need to do before or after I take it in or if the shop will do all the work. Is it just as simple as them removing the carrier bearing and putting in a new shaft?

Thanks!

P.S.
I'm aware of the search function, but after 45 minutes of searching and not finding a definate answer, I gave up. Sorry.

I am gonna be doing it in the next day or two. You need to get them to put a slip yoke on the front of that or else u will mes something up because the shaft won;t have any travel in it.

hey Brandon, Adem here...First off I do think that you don't have body lift therefore the crosmember will have to be cut out and flipped around.. I just did that a few months ago, all said and done dshaft was $150 but I did have JR from Ms Conception Motorsports do a custom job for me, because I had clearance issues with stock crossmember. he ended up having to fabricate a custom 1/4" plate that wraps around and of course dshaft has a slip to allow it to extend... wait till you see mine on Saturday, and then make your decision... JR is really inexpensive and he does some awesome fab work... he has more than helped out a Zutah crowd many times... he is the guy I will have put in my teralows, clutch and fabricate my new winch bumper next week... boy my truck will be gone awhile.. can't wait to test out new mods... hope this helps!

Well I have to disagree with the first comment. I didn't flip my crossmember. So far I have had no ill affect from not doing it. I would however recommend it. I have a line around the driveshaft where it rubbed during flex. I couldn't say if this was a limiting factor or not, but it doesn't look like it is. The fact that I rub the crossmember does make me want to go and get it flipped but it isn't critical.

I would agree with the comment about JR. I do like his work and have used him a little here and there. I would however use Six States in Orem. That is who did mine and Caleb's. They did a good job and it only cost $125. Now if you are in the SL valley then sure drop it off with JR, but since you live in Orem it would probably be easier to use Six States.

Steve

At six states they may want to charge you more, but they will get you better newer components. IE and entirely new driveshaft with new u joints for about 220.

I will probably end up at six states just because they are closer to me.

I'm also gonna have to disagree. BL should not affect the placement of the rear of the t-case, crossmember, or the placement of the rear axle. Flipping the crossmember with a BL would be much easier though.

Most shops will probably reuse your original slip yoke and the u-joints at either end.

Its a simple swap. 10 bolts to take the old one out, 8 bolts to put the new one in. A tube of grease and a can of spraypaint are the only other things you'll need. One more thing, don't make the mistake I did and fill the slip yoke with grease before intalling driveshaft. When putting the shaft in, you'll probably have to compress the slip yoke and all that fresh grease just squeezes out on your noggin.

-chris

Depends on how much lift (ie driveshaft angle) and the diameter of the shaft itself whether this will be a problem or not. When people started doing this mod, Rodeofox used a 3" tube shaft on his 3" lifted Rodeo, and could rub the shaft slightly on the crossmember flexing. go with a tube smaller than 3" and you certainly won't have an issue.

As its been said, bodylifting does not affect the relation of the crossmember to the shaft.

-Rob

It is my understanding that we do not have slip yokes stock...that is why they have to add one in. A freind I trust sudgested having them put a slip yoke conecte to the transfer case outpiut shaft and then spline the front part of the driveshaft tube.

That would work only if you never planned on moving your back axle up or down more than a half inch or so.

We absolutely have slip yokes in our trucks. When I had good 'ol Tom Woods make my rear shaft, he reused the stock slip yoke (which are pretty much just as beefy as anything you'd buy in a standard-grade shaft) which saved me some $$$.

For the first driveshaft I made, maybe $180, but that was without a CV or transfer-case adapter flange to fit up the 2nd gen Toyota CV that Tom used the second time I had it done.

used a 3" tube shaft on his 3" lifted Rodeo, and could rub the shaft slightly on the crossmember flexing. go with a tube smaller than 3" and you certainly won't have an issue.

When trying to get a one piece, I was told that the recommended dia was 3" for our length; anything smaller could cause a "whip?" Could anyone (w/o body lift) post a pic of the notch that was taken or how you flipped it and remounted the seatbelt bolts - guessing that's what they are.