I have a 90 yj with a 4.2lt w/ carb need help and have no money. when i start it take 10 mins to warm up. when driving it stalls at lights and when slowing down.it run at 1000 rpm when it is right need help.

bill <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

First thing to do is to put in a brand new 195* thermostat. Then see what happens to the warm-up and the rest of the complaints... That could be all of the problem.
Big Jim

I'd also suggest that make sure you still have the "stove pipe" attached from the outside of the exhaust manifold to the bottom of the air intake hose. The carb likes to breath warm air. Then, clean your carb every six months or so, from jeeptech.com It's almost routine maintenance for me. Good Luck, you'll get it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

thank you for the help but all that has been done or checked. so i thank i will save for that new webber carb or look for an old cj carb pre 1986. any one with a spare? i could buy.

thanks
bill <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

have you gone through the flow charts in a chilton?

you need to have all the sensrors running proporly in order to get the carb to work right, then you need the actuatros to function just as well so that the commands the computer sends out are performed proporly.

I beg your pardon Freebird...you are not going to brush me off that quickly!
Ok the carb has nothing to do with the warming of the engine.. BUT the temp of the engine has a whole BUNCH to do with the way the carb behaves. So with that in mind lets get the 195* thermostat back in there! Ok! First things first.
You said: thank you for the help but all that has been done or checked!
How do you check all that? You take the darn thermostat out and put in a brand new 195* that is how! When you get the temp up where it belongs lots of good things can happen.
Big JIm

hehe BJ...... your pride gets wounded sooo quick.... but you are right....unless the gauge is working.... the only way to know the thermo stat is good is to either replace it or boil it... by my 91 takes about 10 to come up to full heat and about 2-3 for warm are to come out the heater....

i bet he has a sensor thats out of range or not working and isn't aloow him to go into closed loop proporly.

I have sympathy for the bloodied forehead from beating it against the wall.
BJ your advice makes no sense at all to someone who has no understanding of the system. In fact, we have all seen this too many times. While it looks ugly and some of it never really worked exactly the way jeep intended it to, the spagetti of hoses, wires and vacuum switching doohickys is intimidating to pros much less the average schmo.

This is why guys say "I'm'a gonna toss all that junk and put on a weber or some "older" carb". Simply because they don't know, or don't want to learn how to properly repair their rig. Yup, a non-feedback carb is simpler.

If you're going to save up some nickles and dimes, get a Howell TBI system. Go forward in technology, upgrade.

SD

So, you cleaned the carb last night. Visual inspection would do you no good, you cannot see if the jets are clogged with crap unless you take it apart. I'd clean the carb again, replace the brass "needle & seat" entering the carb (is that the right seat?). Do more reading, it's worth it. Use www.google.com to look for more helpful stuff...there is tons out there, especially on this board. Just wanting to gut the system is a bad idea, especially when you don't understand the actual cause of the problem.
For a start: http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/258bbd/

PS, don't worry Jim, It'll be alright <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" /> He wasn't trying to pass us by, just get the answer he wanted to hear.

have a friend with a 90. it ran like crap. it turned out to be the pickup (i think that's what it's called) in the distributor. swapped in a spare... now it runs like a top and he's not selling it anymore. i have no idea if this could be your problem but it's worth throwing a meter on it to check the resistence. a chilton's or somebody else here should be able to tell you what the ohms should be. or google it.
weber is a speed bump on the road to injection!
good luck
Brian <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />