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body work q
#456364
05/27/04 10:17 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 927
OP
Rock Warrior
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How hard would it be to fab a D50 cab on to a Raider Frame? The box would be easy but I was curious if anybody knew how close a fit I would have with a P/U cab.
always working
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Re: body work q
[Re: Macka]
#456365
05/27/04 10:27 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
Web Wheeler
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It might be easier to import one of these: http://pajero.nitteberg.com/I really like that truck and sure would love to own one. Frank
'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
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Re: body work q
[Re: FrankR]
#456366
05/27/04 10:30 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 927
OP
Rock Warrior
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Used them overseas, they are soft top pajeros/monteros. I was thinking of mating a P/U body hardtop and just making a mini box behind it.
always working
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Re: body work q
[Re: Macka]
#456367
05/27/04 10:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 16,227
Web Wheeler
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Why not simply remove the bed from a pickup instead? or maybe even bob the bed?
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Re: body work q
[Re: off-roader]
#456368
05/27/04 10:45 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 927
OP
Rock Warrior
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Why not simply remove the bed from a pickup instead? or maybe even bob the bed? Because I thought a SWB pickup would be unique. Picture a SWB Raider frame with a D50 body and custom box.
always working
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Re: body work q
[Re: Macka]
#456369
05/28/04 12:15 AM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,622
Roll Me Over
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Gord, that's something I've always wanted to try doing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />. I'm not sure about the body mounts, but I do know that the Monty engine/trans sits roughly 6" farther back than that of the pickup. Makes for nice weight distribution, but you'd have to chop the truck firewall, or cut the front of the fenders. The second option might not be so bad if you were thinking of a SAS <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.
'06 Dakota QC 4.7 6sp 4x4 '88 Mighty Max '77 KZ1000 fun old bike
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Re: body work q
[Re: NathanC]
#456370
05/28/04 01:47 AM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 927
OP
Rock Warrior
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Gord, that's something I've always wanted to try doing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />. I'm not sure about the body mounts, but I do know that the Monty engine/trans sits roughly 6" farther back than that of the pickup. Makes for nice weight distribution, but you'd have to chop the truck firewall, or cut the front of the fenders. The second option might not be so bad if you were thinking of a SAS <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. You are as twisted as I am, I found a D44 without the front dingle dangle protrusion on it. I have a chassis with a puked out body. I can get a D50 front end and cab for cheap.............
always working
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Re: body work q
[Re: Macka]
#456371
05/28/04 02:54 AM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,622
Roll Me Over
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<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />
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Re: body work q
[Re: NathanC]
#456372
05/28/04 03:14 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 927
OP
Rock Warrior
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Nathan,
You mean the fenders are shorter? I'll measure on my buds today to see if this is much different. When I measured rad cradle to firewall before I thought the p/u was only 1 inch shorter. Mind you I am looking at a regular cab, not the extended cab. I think I might run into issues with the rear tires if I go that route. Could you meaure some things for me please? The length from the grill to the back of the cab, and the distance from the rear of the rad cradle, to the firewall. I know on the 360 we had to modify the rad cradle a bit but nothing drastic. We also hung the rad on a slant and notched the front bumper for clearance. You see once I get the pics.
always working
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Re: body work q
[Re: Macka]
#456373
05/28/04 11:22 PM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,622
Roll Me Over
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What I was meaning was that the engine and transmission sit farther back in the frame on a Monty. For example, the since the truck's engine sits farther forward, the oil pan sump is in front of the front diff. On the Monty's it's behind the diff. If you sat a truck cab on a Monty frame so that the front wheels were centered in the fenders, the engine would end up in the firewall.
But then again, if you are dropping in a 4.3, maybe this wouldn't be a concern. Maybe you could just move your new combo farther forward. This would give you more rear driveshaft length <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />.
As for the measurements, give me a couple days, my bro swiped my tape measure out of my toolbox last weekend <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />.
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