Hey everyone,

I have a bad injector at the #4 cylinder and need to replace it.

How much time does it usually take to perform this repair?

I'm in a crunch, I'm leading a trailride for my local 4x4 club this weekend and need to have my runner going by tomorrow around lunchtime <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />.

I have all night tonight and tomorrow morning to work on it. Tips, advice from the 22re gurus will be greatly appreciated.

I can do it in a few hours, I've had lots of practice. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> Start by taking off the air intake and then the upper intake manifold. You will need to take off a few vacuum fittings as well as the coolant line that runs into the bottom of the throttle body. Make sure to mark these so you know where they go when you hook everything back up.

Once the upper intake manifold is off, you need to take off the fuel rail so be sure to pull the EFI fuse and then turn the motor over the release the pressure from the tank. Now you can yank the rail and change the injector. While you are there I would consider new o-rings and grommets for all of the injectors, they are cheap and this will likely save you from becoming an expert at this procedure. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Just did it on my 87' 4Runner Sunday before last. Do as Hairy said, but before you go buying a replacement make sure the wiring isnt the culprit. Mid harness is where the injectors all butt together and the white wires leading to the ECU from the injectors is prone to damage. Cant imagine why, 4 into 2 using a single shoddy butt connector maybe? lol Anyways, I got replacement injector through Autozone and paid just under $60 with tax. Total time for tear-down and replacement should be about 3 hours...4 max being maticulous.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Thanks! I tried shaking the wiring harness and injector connector while the engine was running, but I kept getting the same consistent misfire. I'll double check the wiring again when I have the plenum off.

If all goes well, I'll have some nice wheeling shots to post from over the weekend <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />.

I was able to replace the #4 injector before the trail run. It's too bad that it didn't fix my miss <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />. I ended up driving my street queen to the campsite and rode with someone on the trail. My pics are here,

http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/br...photos.yahoo.com/ph/brainalien/my_photos

Soooo, I finally get back to tinkering with my poor little 22re yesterday. While it was running, I went back and started fooling with the vacumn hoses and electrical connections to see if the idle would clear up.

Nothing worked, so I was pondering what to try next when the engine cleared up on it's own and ran perfect! When it cleared up the idle jumped to 950rpm, that's weird. I gave it some gas and when it returned to idle it started missing again, but not has bad. I started eyeing the AFM and the K&N cone filter since I hadn't played with it yet. Sure enough, I shook the AFM and the idle cleared up momentarily. I took off the filter and pressed the AFM flap in a little bit and the engine idled perfect again.

Is this the case of a stuck flapper? I researched a few boards and found out this happens when people are running the K&N filters. I'm real tempted to shoot a little carb cleaner on the flapper hinge to try and free it up. I don't want to make things worse though <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />.

I hope everyone enjoys the pics, it drove me crazy to whatch my buddy wheel his red 85 while my 4runner sat in the driveway <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />. That's the way it goes.

Doesn't it just suck when you spend hours 'fixing' something and still have the same problem?? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

So you replaced the injetor without first checking it with a stethescope?? You're doing things the hard and expensive way my friend! When cleaning the AFM vane, just be careful to keep the topside up so that none of the chemicals pool in box where all the sensitive stuff is located. The seals on the vane shaft might be dried out and cracking, so look things over carefully before tearing into it. If the vane only sticks in one area and is free beyond that point, see what the hold up is. Could also be that the pickups in the box have dug into the traces and are now getting intermittant contact. Only open the lid as a last resort though.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Yeah, replacing the injector was a bone-headed move. I even checked them with a flat head screwdriver and they were all ticking away normally. I was pulling straws at that point though. I did try to swap the AFM for another one, but I wasn't sure of the replacment's condition and the miss didn't go away, so I put the original back in and didn't touch it after that.

I have another complete 22re engine in my shed so replacing the injector didn't cost me any $, just time and headache <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.

I'll hit the boneyard tomorrow and try to find another AFM if the cleaning doesn't work. I'd be surprised to have two bad units though.

If a different AFM doesnt get rid of the problem, strip your wiring harness off and inspect the wires themselves. Another key area is the actual connector/wire junction. Look for kinked or harshly bent wires not to mention bare spots. Chances of two bad AFMs are low, as long as the tops havent been cut open that is. Im down to one spare, been cut open unfortunately...but still specs out.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />