Has anyone here noticed that after the torsions are cranked up the front swaybar ends are in a bind where they connect to the lowert control arm? Basically because the holes in the control arm get closer together, due to the radial movement of the suspension, and the mounting surfaces are now out of align. This caused my rig to ride kind of harsh, since the suspension is trying to bow the swaybar. Honestly it is just a bad design on Mitsu's part, bolting the swaybar to the control arm directly with rubber isolators. Anyway after some pontering over the issue, I come up with a answere. I still had my end links from the rear sway bar removal, I basically used the isolators from them, and I cut one of the spacers in half, then got some shorter bolts and reinstalled all the parts on the front. Now the sway bar has two pivot points under suspension travel, making the ride much better. I also noticed that when I initially removed the sway bar with the oem mounts, I had to readjust my passenger torsion, because the sway bar was holding it in a bind. Anyway, todays ride to work was much nicer. If anyone wants pics of the new setup, let me know.

Post 'em, please..... I found the same thing with mine and it was quite a fight to get the sway bar reconnected. To install mine, I had to first connect the ends and then the middle, but I don't like the bind on the bolts at all.

Thanks,
Frank

Ok, I'll get some pics posted later today.

Maybe, maybe not. In all likelyhood, it was designed to ride at normal height, with stock tires on it. And not designed to be used as a "budget lift" feature.
When used as a "budget lift", we are most likely over-extending the design parameters. Therefore, not a bad design, just used beyond designed capabilities.

Even at stock ride height, since there is no end link, under suspension extension the sway bar is pulled in and on suspension compression it is pulled out. When a double end link is used, it will allow for angle change in the link intself versus pulling on the dogleg of the swaybar. And as for intended purpose, these are off road rigs, they are designed to take advantage of the entire suspension travel. When we raise the torsion bars we're mearly just raising normal ride height farther up on the travel parameters. The sway bar should be designed to function properly from fully extended to fully compressed suspension travel. Same as for the CV joints. They are designed, hopefully, to withstand any angle between the given stops of suspension travel, with correctly adjusted camber, that is important. Anyway, these are just my theories, and we all know that theories are nothing more than opinions, and we all know what they say about opinions.......

i just diched the sway bar all together.my truck still handles
very well,but i dont have as much weight to carry around.

Here are some pics

Not so sure about the reason for the as-bar binding but is it just me, or is your driver side end link bent? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I don't have a truck to look off of at the moment, but how close are your tierod adjuster sleeves, at full droop, to your swaybar, now that it sits higher?

With a swaybar disconnect, I don't have any problems with mine, but with cranked t-bars, it makes sense that the swaybar would bind, since its still in the same position, but the control arms are theoretically "lower". Yours looks like an effective solution though. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

PHIL