What type of synthetic oils do people recommend? I've just put in a new 22RE, and new R&P (4.88's with ARB's). I'm considering going to a synthetic oil for the motor, diffs and T-Case (maybe the tranny too?). Some have suggested Mobil 1 for the engine, and I've heard Amsoil for the R&P/T-case.

- What do you folks run, and why?
- What are the recommended change intervals? (I've seen 3 times the normal manufacture recomendation...is this right?)
- What viscosity is best? (over 100 in summer, occasionally below freezing in winter)

Thanks in advance... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Erik

Redline and Mobil1 seem to be the most recommended. You should run conventional oil in that new motor, atleast until it is broken in. Synthetics make the break-in period much longer. I have yet to run redline in my tranny/tcase, but many people swear by that stuff (tranny shifts much better). You can also run that in your diffs. In your climate use 10w30 in your engine.
I'm currently running mobil 1 synthetic in my diff's because.. well because it is easy to come by at any autoparts store plus it is synthetic.
I run valvoline (10w 30) in the motor because that's what Darin uses, and it is trusted by the top mechanics!
I'm soon going to be running Redline MT-90 in my Tranny/case.
Hope this helps! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I talked to a rep from a major oil company and he said mobil one is the best .He did not sell it himself. I run it in two out of three of my junk and 5w50 castrol in the other .The 5/50 keeps the oil pressure up when warm and it burns way less than the 10/30. Break it in with regular oil

I'm running 10W40 Amsoil. Pretty happy with it, but at first seems to disappear. But now it doesnt. I need to run some 20W50 Amsoil next change. screw this thin crap. I live in FL where it's heat index of 99F+ and you're stuck in a traffic jam for hrs.

If you run synthetics in a fresh rebuild you will be kissing any warranties goodbye. Dino juice until everything is sealed up then consider your options.

Me? I personally dont run synthetics. Might consider it in my gearboxes down the road but on engines I run the same identical stuff as The #1 Top Mechanics do. And they choose Valvoline. I stick to the 10w-30 flavor. Why do I run this in all 4 of our Toyotas (2 22R-E, 1 22R and a *ahem...3S-FE) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> because I have not had an oil related problem/failure yet. Sure Ive destoyed a few 22R-Es.....but still none were oil related whatsoever. Regular change intervals of 3000-3500 miles. Opinion...Syn MOTOR OILS are over-rated.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Amsoil is the best. Check out their website they have a lot of usefull info.

I run Mobil 1 mainly because of availibility. I also run 10,000 drain intervals. Once you use synthetic you will never go back. Keeps the engine much cleaner than dyno juice. I have proof of this (taken apart a few engines, some using syntheticand some having had regular oil changes with dyno juice.

When I first bought my Toy, I ran dyno juice (10W40 Castrol) but started having a lot of engine noise at 2,500 miles. Now I run 10W30 Mobil 1. I get better oil pressure when the engine is hot (running for several hours in the sand dunes) and in 10,000 miles I do not have any increas in engine noise.

As for the trans, redline all the way.

Bottom line for me. Dyno juice is fine and will not shorten you engine life. You just have to change is more often. Synthetic stands up to heat much better and you can get a lot more life out of it.

One more oil related fact. Conventional oil is not as conventional as people like to think. Oil comes out of the ground with only 1 viscosity. For example 5 weight, 20 weight etc. It does not come out 10w30. They may 10w30 by starting out with 10 weight oil and then adding synthetic viscosity enhansers that at temperature thicken up the oil to act like a 30 weight. The base oil (10 weight in this case) will never break down. Over time in your engine the viscosity enhansors break down and you have straight 10 weight oil in your engine. Synthetic oil is built from the ground up as a multi-weight and will not break down.

I just switched to Redline's MT-90 synthetic in my tranny and T-case about a month ago when I put in the new clutch. Why did I do it? Because there has been alot of positive feedback about it from people on this board. And in my experience, the advice from the people on this board is as good as gold. Anyway, smoother running, smoother shifting, even runs great during these hot summer days. You have my vote for MT-90 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Wait until you have about 1000 miles on your new gears before you make the switch. The rough faces on the gear teeth need to wear smooth before you drive it hard and the synthetic will slow down the break-in time.

I'm running Mobil 1 in engine(10W30), tranny and transfer case(ATF) and diffs(75W90)

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />This surprises me...I would think if synthetics are supposed to be as good or better than dead dino's, they would encourage it's use.

Thanks for all the input. I think I'll wait until I've got 1-1.5k miles on it before switching over, to better break things in. I'll look into the whole warranty thing. (I'll get back to everyone when I find out more)

Got the motor in Saturday evening, and already have about 150 miles on it and everything is running great. Thanks for all your help.
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />Erik

That's what I run. Darin told me so. 'Cept I use Durablend in the motor. Redline MT-90 in the tranny and NOTHING else. Mobil1 gear oil in the tranny will increase crunchy shifting, don't use it there. I also found Mobil1 gear oil will find any less-than-optimal seals easier than just about anything else, and seep all over.


Didn't know the auto tranny and tcase share fluid... Definitely do NOT run ATF in a non-auto gearbox/tcase.