By the way ..... I also foung the trouble shooting and diagrams on the ksis system but it keeps freezing on me and I can't bring it up. If anyone else can that would be good also.

I had my CEL light coming on after 5 minutes, then going off. This went on for 30 days. Then one day it was on all the time. Still, I had no symtoms of anything being wrong except for a few times when the idle was at 1200; a definate 1-2 second miss on the freeway in 5th; and a buzzing on my stereo. The CEL said it was the O2 sensor plus a couple other things. I found when I wiggled the ground wires which connected on the battery shelf and going down to the underside of the engine, it would miss. I ran a new ground line to the firewall about a foot away. It solved everything but the stereo buzz. Soooo, I'd check the ground, especailly if you travel over bumpy roads (like mine is a dirt mile long driveway with lots of dips and switchbacks. It just seems that most of my problems are from shaking the car too much.

Ok, Still can't bring up the info on KSIS for the wireing because it keeps freezing up my computer for some reason. However, I did find info in the cd manual (Thank's Mike) and I have been looking over it again and again. The more I look at it the more I start to figure out little tidbits to get me closer to finding the problem.


Although, since the last time I posted about this My rear defroster has stopped working totally ..... Also, since the rear defroster has stopped completely I noticed that the light no longer comes on when I depress the brake pedal. Something is definatly wrong here. I checked fuses, power and ground on the rear window itself, also checked the ground connections under the driverside and passenger side kick panels. Still trying to find other places that may affect the rear defroster. Come on guys ....... I'm pissing in the wind here. Really need your help before this crap starts to snowball into other problems.

ok....first thing....it wont be a snowball ya get from pissin' in the wind!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

heh...couldn't resist was just too easy! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

if all else fails take it over to a buddies house with some nice cold beer sit back and re-think everything you've checked...sometimes you just need someone else lookin at it with you in a less agrivated state to get ideas and possibilities clickin and they may see something that has been over looked <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Sounds like the defroster has shorted out completely or been disconnected...
perhaps a bad wire not necisarily a loose or curroded ground. Could be something as simple as a broken or exposed wire getting moved around or bumped or a splice in the wire getting pulled apart therefore no more connection....simple but tough to find. Just a thought good luck

OK, I'll give it a try. Reference page 61 of the electrical manual.

First, remember that the engine MUST be running in order for the rear defroster to turn on. If the engine is off it won't turn on.

When you hit the rear defrost switch can you hear the rear defrost relay click and does the rear defrost light come on and stay on? Yes? No?

If no click then the trouble is in the circuit that controls the relay coil. The blue wire at pin 1 of the coil should have +12 volts. If the relay clicks and stays on the blue/red wire at pin 3 should be 0 volts or very near 0 volts. If no click and pin 3 has +12 volts there is the problem. The alarm module, for whatever reason, is not allowing the turn on. Verify that the ground wire between pin 10 of the rear defrost switch to ground is good. Make sure you have continuity.

This should get you started. Obviously not seeing the actual symptoms is gonna make this hit or miss but we might get lucky.

LOL ....... I almost pissed myself. Very Funny ....

Ok, I do hear the click when I press in the button. The light does not come on though, and the rear window does not defrost. I'll keep checking stuff out though.

OK, if the relay is clicking then check the contact side of the relay. Check the 20A DEF fuse first and make sure it's OK. With the rear defroster on you should have +12 volts at the light green wire at pin 4 and at the green/blue wire at pin 2. If NO +12 volts at pin 2 that means the relay did NOT pick and go back to my prior post and troubleshoot that.

I have yet to have to go hunting a ground issue in my Sportage so telling you where exactly they are is best left for someone else (at least at the moment).

I can tell you, don't rely on a ground to be good just because it is tight and looks clean. Alluminum or copper connections on steel cause electrolosis and cause corrosion without any outside influences so even though the connection looks good, taking them off, visually checking and cleaning them and in particular cleaning any paint around the connection on the chassis, and reinstalling them is the only true way to know you have a good connection!

At my day job, we have a test light with 3 connections (one to battery, one to a good ground, and a probe we use to test each circuit in question,) that we use and it will sniff out a bad ground in a hurry. Red Light = "+12 volts or no ground", green light = "good ground or -12volts" and no-light = "no power or ground". If you want to go that fancy, you can buy one off the Mac tools truck for about $60.00.

If a circuit losses the ground or only has a partial connection, you will be able to read a voltage at that wire since the circuit will backfeed 12 volts to the point that the ground is lost. It is these "backfeed" situations where one circuit will start turning on another circuit on the same bad ground connection by creating a artificial ground for that circuit when it is activated, thus the activation of the rear defroster light when the brake lights are activated!

The lag in time for your rear defrosters to activate also constitutes a bad ground. When you turn them on, power is sent straight through the defrosters to the bad or partial ground. Heat is created from the resistance of the lost contact and when the circuit (or in this case connection) gets hot enough, the corrosion finally creates a temporary path and things start to work.

I wish I was close enough to help you out. I am still stuck to the ground theory though and a 3 connection test light is about the only way to truely do the test in a hurry and verify my beliefs. Otherwise, use a regular test light with the ground wire hooked to 12 volts and use the probe as a ground tester. If it lights when you touch a connection it's a good ground, be wary of anything that flickers or is dim when you probe it.

If all else fails, the first idea of removal and cleaning usually uncovers the culprit too.

I may now be in the same boat though as my dome light has quit working. Still has good bulb and good fuse, just no power to the light! hmmmm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />