I need to know about flaring hard lines to accept a brake line for the dana 44... I have the stainless lines, but I am not sure what fittings to use and what size flare I need to use... Thanks ahead of time... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I have done this before and I won't do it again.It's not worth the hassle and all.You will need a tool to double flare the line,it flares it once and then flares it again inside itself.With SS you may have problems with the
tubing cracking using cheap flare kit's most people sell.
Why not just use premade tubing availible in lenghts
from 6" to atleast 8'?Or use prebent brakelines for
a D44?If you need them to match up 2 different
size fittings they make lines with different fittings on each end.
If you want the fittings you'll have to go to autoparts store and match up the fittings with what you need,if they
have fittings sold seperatly.
I don't mean to put the project down,because custem bent
and flared SS lines look excellent when done,but I don't believe it's worth the trouble.
Good luck and post some pics when they are done. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Bansil

Actually, when I mentioned SS lines, im talking about the flexible lines, not the hard lines....

Thaks for your help <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

With your guys help I have narrowed it down to four fittings -

3 AN to 3/8-24 Fem. I.F.*
3 AN to 3/8-24 Fem.
4 to 3/8-24 Fem.
4 to 3/8-24 Fem. I.F.*

Do i need the "I.F." ones? Also is the stock hard line a 3AN or a 4?

The stock hard line is metric, not AN fitting.

-Rob

just a question. what happens if the lines aren't double flared? I know it is illegal and all, but what is so good about the double flare vs just flared?

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner...

I didn't flare a single line in my entire setup. I used nothing but compression fittings to factory flares from NAPA. Cut off the stock line at the rail, bolt on a compression fitting, bolt on the stainless line to that (now) SAE fitting. I'm not sure there are any more stock Isuzu flares left on my truck anywhere now that I've had the rear axle redone, too.

Check this page:
http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/SOA/SOAbrakes.html

These are the Earl's part numbers I used for my rear brake lines. The conversion fitting at the top that attaches to the factory hard line should be the same as you'd need for the front hard lines. It's Earl's part #640603.

To answer your question, the factory hard line fitting is a male, flared fitting (as are all hard-line, flared tube ends). To adapt something to it, you need a female, inverted flared fitting to match. These are metric, but from what I found, there's only really 1 "metric" size fitting that seems to work for Isuzu, Honda, Toyota, etc.

Stick with AN3 fittings. That's the apropriate size for brake lines.


FWIW, I'm using a stock brake line hose from an early toyota truck rear axle. It's the long line that drops from the frame down to the axle tube. It's male on 1 end, female on the other so it works as an extension (vs the Isuzu hose that is attached directly to the tee on the axle and cannot be used as an extension). It's about 12" long and the flares/threads are compatible with Isuzu. I'm using 1 on each side on the front as an extension.

--Dan

Double flares are much more durable and handle higher pressures. Single flares are fine for fuel lines and such, but for a couple thousand PSI for brakes, the double is much better to use.

I've had very good luck double flaring tubing using a cheap Harbor Freight ($15?) double flaring tool. After a few tries to figure it out, they come out perfect every time. The key is preparing the tube. The cut has to be square to the tube. Not angled cuts. And the end has to be deburred, both inside and out.

If you're doing a double flare, you also want to make the outside edge of the cut very smooth and rounded, or slightly chamfered. The first step of the double flare is to bubble the tube. The end of the tube needs to fold inward, with the outward edge of the tube being directed in by the die. If it's got a sharp edge on it, it'll catch and the tube will just push out of the clamp instead of sliding along the die and buckling.

Kinda hard to explain, but easy to see once you have the tool in front of you to do the flare. I've done several 3/16" brake lines and 3/8" for the power steering pressure line with no problems. I am using the coated, plain steel (common at Auto Zone, Checker, etc) lines and not stainless which I think is a much harder material to get to buckle in the first step.


--Dan

Thanks alot to all you guys who chimed in to help me, houlster, rob, and mike...... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I have the lines installed, I just need to bleed them now...
But its kind of hard to focus when your doped up on vicodyn from having your wisdom teeth removed...

I'll post pics sometime this week of the finished product... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/coolg.gif" alt="" />