I just got my OME rear leafs and greasable shacles in and I noticed that the shackle parts are different. Does anybody know the reason for this???? A picture of the kit can be found at:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/112734077/194205047JinjNg
The green arrows are pointing to the parts I'm talking about.

Thanks for you input..

Maybe some sort of anti-inversion stop on the shackle side plates?

Roger,
I read something about that in a technical write-up someone posted, the instructions aren't the greatest but now at least I have an idea what they're for.

After I this project (if I survive <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />) I'm going to install the body mounts I bought from you.

Thanks again for all your help!!!

Hi gcinque, how much did those leafs cost u? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Rear leafs OME17= $249.95 each.
Bushing kits=$24.95 x2
Greasable Shackle= $95.00
U bolts= $18.00 x4

They lift the back end about 2 inches and I had to remove the bottom leaf because the ride was very "stiff". I also have a slight vibration when going from 0 to 30mph, I tried removing the shims, adding them in and still cannot get rid of vibration. It's obviously not the result I had in mind.

You need to measure the angles on the driveshaft ends and figure out what sort of shim you need to make it run smooth. Best to remove the shims and get a baseline angle, then its fairly easy to get back to where it should be. Best case would have been to take an angle reading *before* installing the springs, since it was a "good" angle.

I read your write-up on "Driveline 101"
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml

Since the driveline does have u-joint yokes,I went out and purchased an angle finder from Sears. I'll do as you suggest this weekend, remove the shims and take baseline measurements. I do think you're right about the shackles being longer than the original ones and thought about trying to get a set made exactly the same size as the original shackles but with threaded holes on one side. I don't remember if the original ones were threaded on one side, I'll check and verify this maybe I can use them.

The new springs didn't come with new shims, I thought I had to install them just because they where part of the original setup.

So far I have:

1. Installed new leaf pack (6 leaf) and old shims. Ride was very stiff, alot of vibration.
2. Installed new leaf pack (6 leaf)w/o shims. Ride was very stiff, less vibrations.
3. Installed new leaf pack minus bottom overload leaf with shims. Ride improved but vibrations still there.
4. Cranked front torsion bars up an inch. Almost level vibration still there.

Thanks,

You'll not be able to use the stock shackle parts with the new shackles as the stock shackles have the pins pressed/welded into one side and the other side has a stepped down hole that matches with a shoulder on the pins. You might try using the stock shackle as is, but likely if OME supplied a longer shackle, it is because the longer shackle is needed for the springs. A shackle must be long enough to accomodate the change in length of the spring from full extension to full compression without having the shackle limit the travel. As I recall and earlier post, your shackles had some sort of anti-inversion tabs on them so that is probably a concern of OMEs, that when the spring is fully extended, the shackle may swing too far forward and invert or fold up onto the frame.

BEst bet would be to use their shackles and determine the angle change needed via shims. As I mention on my shackle page, you'll see about 1 degree of pinion angle tilt per extra inch of shackle length (stock is just short of 3.5" center-center). So you can compare this "rule of thumb" measurement with what you find on the angle finder and see if the measurements sound reasonable. Then its easy to make a shim to correct the angle at the pinion flange.