iv'e just got done doing a ground-up rebuild...but my engine is only firing off the number 1 and 3 cylinders...my 2 and 4 arent getting any spark at all. The wires are good, i checked them, and the plugs are good. I checked w/spare wires i had laying around. The rotor and cap are fine, although the cap has slight scuff marks from the rotor at the 2 and 4 contact points. The reluctor inside the dist. looks fine...maybe the pickup coil? How would I test that? Also, it couldnt be 180* out, because then i wouldnt even be able to turn over. Also, anyone know where the A.T. oil temp guage/sensor lives at on the vehicle? and it wouldnt happen to have a connector that looks like this? another view . any help would be great. thanks!

When you say you checked the wires, did you check the leads to the actual fuel injectors? Since #2 and #4 are both dead the only thing I know of that they share is the injector leads. Yup, #1 and #3 run on the same circuit as does #2 and #4. If you take apart your wiring harness about 4" above where the harness turns in under the plenum you will find the factory butt connectors that split the wires from single pair into double pair. I would check the continuity of the wires, and if they are ok, look at the resistor block thing on the passenger inner fender that the injectors plug into...may have a problem there. But then agiain if you are getting fuel to those cylinders none of this will apply. lol
~Darin <img border="0" alt="[Baby]" title="" src="graemlins/baby.gif" />

**PS-your pics arent working...doesnt Yahoo suck?!
Oh and since I re-read your post a 3rd time..and see its a spark issue...check to make sure your distibutor shaft isnt bent. Take cap off and have a buddy turn over the engine and watch to make sure the reluctor (stator) the 4 pointed thingy is making a PERFECT circle of rotation. Same goes for the Ignition rotor. You might not be making contact inside the cap with #2 and #4. Just a thought... man that hurts my head!!! <img border="0" alt="[Shiner]" title="" src="graemlins/shiner.gif" />

<small>[ February 27, 2003, 01:39 PM: Message edited by: Esquire812 ]</small>

lol...damn...the pics are working for me when i click the link...ill find alterior(sp?) means. Yeah, it is a spark issue. BUT i will certainly check the wires, because theres just too much coincidence there. My injectors dont plug into anything on the fender well....just straight from the harness to the injectors...could that be my problem? I dont see HOW they could plug into any sort of resistor block..maybe im just not following you? I have to wait until someone gets home to try the dist. reluctor check. thanks!

p.s.-this is gonna suck major if my dist. is bent!

here: the pics are here

<small>[ February 27, 2003, 02:16 PM: Message edited by: zephyr ]</small>

That plug looks like an injector connector. But ya know it could also be the connection for the Air Flow Valve. I have an 85' EFI out in my truck right now...complete with wiring harness...all EFI components are there. Problem is its all boxed wrapped and taped and going to UPS for a trip to Florida this afternoon. lol Damn Sam. Be right back...got a diagram need to find that'll help ya....

yeah, it looks just like my injector connectors, except mine are white, and that thing is green. thats why im lost. maybe their a neutral start switch? It doesnt have alot of reach, and where is the Air Flow Valve located?

Looks like this picture. Mounts under the intake manifold on 88' and earlier EFI systems. Connector on the back is a real PIA to see and connect. Mounts with (2) 10mm bolts under the #1 runner. Do you have one of these valves? One of the air hoses connects to plenum directly below the Cold Start Injector, the other air tube connects to bottom of Throttle body. <img src="http://ebay3.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_069611fd1f76c56180f2f2aa6ebeb283/i-1.JPG" alt=" - " />

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by zephyr:
<strong> although the cap has slight scuff marks from the rotor at the 2 and 4 contact points</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Damn I really need to slow down when reading these posts...I totally missed this part. Your distributor shaft is bent or the bearing is wasted. Pull out your distributor and spin it by hand while looking at the inside. Any and I mean ANY wobble at all and you are heading to the wrecking yard or parts store. If this is the case and you cant find one, PM me and I can help you out. ~Darin <img border="0" alt="[Baby]" title="" src="graemlins/baby.gif" />

aww man ill go check, im afraid of needing one though. if i pull that out, how am i gonna be able to put it back at tdc w/out taking the valve cover off?

Pull the distributor cap, line up the crank pulley mark with the 5 and make sure the rotor is pointing to where the #1 plugwire contact should be (if cap was in place). You are at TDC #1 then...go ahead and pull the distributor. Take note of the rotor postion as the distributor gear rotates the shaft clockwise as it slides out. When going to re-install postion the rotor in that same place and as the distributor body slides home...you will be in the right spot again.
~Darin <img border="0" alt="[Baby]" title="" src="graemlins/baby.gif" />

lol, oh boy. this is gonna be fun <img border="0" alt="[Hillbilly]" title="" src="graemlins/notooth.gif" />