I've done some forum searching and have read up on 4Crawlers tricks and tips about checking the solenoid voltage/main line voltage/copper contacts write up. What concerns me is the starter appears to have been replaced with a reman unit, so is it safe to assume I just need to get another instead or tearing into a non OEM starter that may or may not have the same copper contacts he describes in the article? Also, if it just happens to quit acting up, can I still get a useful voltage reading(looking for that 0.5v drop) between the main line and solenoid line? Thanks, Jeff
Oh, also there are times in the morning when I hit the key, let it go and the truck is still temporarily getting cranked over like I'm still holding the key to start.

The re-man starters will usually use the same type of contacts. With the voltage test, you ideally need a voltage when the starter works properly and one when it acts up. If the voltages are different, especially if the control wire voltage is much lower when the starter does not work, this would say there is a problem in the circuit feeding that wire. If the voltage is the same when the starter works and when it doesn't, this would say that the problem is inside the starter.

When I go to do the voltage test, the key must be twisted to the start position to send voltage to control wire, right? In other words I'll need my lady in the cab to be turning the key while I'm under the truck checking the voltage?

Whatever it takes to do that, and yes, the idea is you want to see what the voltage is there (at the starter solenoid control wire, i.e. the small one) when you (or someone else) turns the key and it doesn't work. One option is to run a small wire from there back to where you can access it and turn the key at the same time.

Thanks Roger!!