I've got a Caravan head from a Pick & Pull, it's clean and is flat, valves are tight. Is there room at the firewall for the protruiding cam? (my Raider cam is toast)

Yes, I have one on my silver turbo Raider. No problem with clearance.
It also has the mechanical rockers.

take a hack saw and cut the camshaft extension off, and then use he standard plug in the head.
Kary

You have two choices. You can hacksaw off the protruding part of the cam and use the rwd 2.6 rear cam steel cup plug (bring several saw blades - cam is tough), which gives a superior oil seal - that area communicates directly with the oil bleed off the rear cam bearing, and is quite wet, OR, use it like it is, but put a new rear cam seal doughnut in there, and lube the rub side good, and expect to change it about every 18 months, or you get a dribble leak. Cutting the cam is worth the effort.

I'd also spend the bucks to (1) pressure test the head combustion chambers AND exhaust ports and (2) do a light flattening cut on the head if they have a flycutter type machine, and don't use them is all they have is a belt sander to cut heads. If the head is out much, see if they can clamp it and oven heat it to take out some warp before they cut it. It will last a LOT longer if you do it that way, and it's pretty cheap, and the testing catches nasty surprises. See if the boneyard will give you a "no crack or money back" deal - guaranteed rebuildable, in other words.

Felpro sells the rubber doughnut for the cam, and get the 88-89 Starion head set which has the rwd steel cam plug, and see if they'll put on the new valve seals while they cut it - they're in the head set. Also have them light face cut the intake and exhaust manifold flange surfaces, and check the rear exhaust stud for having been stripped. Cut the webs petween the ports on the exhaust manifold, and have the machine shop flatten that too. Intakes stay pretty straight, but it pays to check it. Exhaust manifold stud nuts are one use lockers - I've gotten them at auto parts and at the stealer. See multiple posts on tapping out the head bolt holes in the block, sealing the timing cover/block/head joint, installing the dizzy right, ad nauseum.

Do this job careful and right, or you'll get to practice it soon and get better at it, like me....

This place is harder than a strip bar to take pictures.
But this is how much room you will have.

Great tips and a picture from my home town. What a deal. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> The head is in great shape, no warpage which suprised me after reading the horrer stories of past posters. I did get the 30 day exchange upgrade for the head and the short block. The seal surface on the cam is also in great shape, so I'll most likly run it as is. Cut the flange on the exaust manifold? That will just cause the crack in the rear tube to get bigger. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> This was supposed to be a low budget build, but I get really grumpy when something has to be done over. Looks like you can add me to the "more money in the motor than the whole truck" club.

Try this. Before you cut the exhaust flange, check it with a straightedge. Then check it afterwards and see the difference. I've taken apart a lot of 2.6 heads, and inpspected lots more in the boneyard. I see warp-pulled stripped head threads on almost every 2.6 that's been overheated in the rear exhaust stud hole. I've seen that puppy with almost 1/8" of warp with uncut flanges. If you do it before the manifold cracks, its a lot less likely to do so.

This and the other steps are FastEddy's "Do the head RIGHT, Do the head ONCE" plan, unless, like I said, you like to practice on head R&R. Don't just take my word for it. Search "head" and read it and make up your own mind....

I may have another exhaust manifold for a 2.6 ,if yours is cracked.

Let me know if you need it.

Dan

The exaust flange was missing the bottom stud on my old head, manifold cracked in two, #4 piston/cyl wall toast. I found a good one at the yard with the other parts, so I'm in good shape for that, Thanks for the offer. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> I have access to a machine shop where I sometimes moonlight, and can really check things out next week. I don't trust the tools currently on hand. Having done alot of Fiat/Jaguar/Mazda/Audi heads (I was dealership mechanic back in the 80's), these 2.6ers would appear to be one of the less tolarant of problems.

Thanks again for the advice... Lots of good info around here. Bob H. on the road in Nor. Cal.