So I'm trying to figure out what's causing my 22RE to stumble. It will kinda bog down on acceleration, usually around 2100 to 2700 RPM or so, and it will do it in all gears. Sometimes it will pull fine, then the motor will bog down and kinda struggle through that RPM range. I've changed the fuel filter, the TPS, and AFM. Oxygen sensor was also recently replaced after codes 5 and 11 showed up. Timing was fine, but I have it a set at 8 degrees shorted. TPS was set per FSM, but ran real bad, bogging out a lot. I adjusted it so that it had continuity with a .85mm feeler gauge under the throttle stop (instead of non-continuous) and the bogging didn't seem as bad. That's how it's set now - any of ya got suggestions on where to look next?

Pull and plug the vacuum line going to the EGR valve and see if it still does it.

Ditto. Classic EGR symptom. Make sure your vacuum lines are correct. Those three little vaccum lines on top of the throttle body have to be routed correctly or you will get this exact symptom.
Also, have you cleared the codes since replacing the o2 sensor and adjusting the TPS

Assuming we are talking about an '85:

Code 5 is a shorted or open o2 sensor and 11 is an open in the TPS IDL-E2 circuit when the test connector is shorted.

You know, I was kinda wondering if it may have something to do with the EGR... Would it matter which vacuum line to plug? Are you guys talking about the ones going to the modulator or to the EGR itself? I remember checking the routing of the lines and they looked fine. What could be wrong with the EGR? Holes in the diafragm?

I don't know if it matters, but I attempted to clean out the intake plenum with TB cleaner, and must have got a bunch on the inside of the TPS (hence it's replacement). Is it possible I could have done some damage to the EGR by spraying the cleaner directly in the plenum while it was still on the vehicle? Hmmm... I'll check it out after work tomorrow...

Codes were cleared by removing EFI fuse. And this is on my '85 4Runner...

Yes, as Buster said, pull the line directly off the EGR valve first and see if that makes a difference.

You can also take a vacuum line pluged in to the intake and replaced it with the one on top of the EGR and your truck should stumble and die, if it does not your EGR might be stuck open.

Okay guys, I disconnected the vacuum line to the EGR. The drive on the way home seemed much smoother, but I can still feel a tiny bit of surging - it's almost like there's a step in the powerband. Now, I'm not sure if it's because of the TPS being set a little "off" from spec, but there is still a hint of a surge, albeit much, much diminished in intensity and in frequency. I checked the routing of the vacuum lines again, and they are correct. Here's more insight into the situation. My buddy for some reason tried to adjust the throttle stop screw and proceeded to break the hex end of it. I didn't check to see if the butterfly was set correctly. Is it possible that the butterfly might be set incorrectly and this is causing the EGR "malfunction"?

Try blocking off the EGR pipe/flange located at the rear of the upper intake plenum. I've heard a piece of aluminum from a pop can works. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> If the the prob goes away then you will definitely now it's the EGR.