Looking at the service manal for a 95 runner w/ the 3vze. I just put my heads back on and want to check the timing. Will a timing light work? or do I need a shop tack like the book describes?

Thanks

Anthony

Haven't timed a V6, but on the 22RE you need to get the idle RPM set to a certain range before setting the timing. If you have a tachometer in the dash, that would probably work. I have an old dwell/tach meter that I use on mine, has a low RPM range, 0-1000, so it makes it easy to set the low speed RPM. But I also just picked up a new timing light and it has a digital RPM readout on it.

Yes, you should have someway to check the idle speed. The tach in the cluster will work, but the shop tach is better.

]quote]I just put my heads back on and want to check the timing.[/quote]

You did replace the knock sensor and wire, right?

you know......alot of people just use their eyes and ears....use their ears to make sure it 'sounds' like a decent idle and listen to the way it sounds while watching/adjusting the timing mark.

Thanks for the posts guys. I have always just turned the dizzy till I got the idle I wanted. I'm sure this isn't right and I'm getting sh!t for milage (13). This could be the kayaks on the roof at 80mph, but it is worth checking the timing. The truck used to get more in the range of 15-16 on the interstate and 17 to 18 on the highway.

I guess I need to get a timing light at least.

And no, I did not replace the knock sensor. And If it dies this weekend I'm going to hunt you down <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />. All kidding aside. I have put about 1200 miles on the engine since I put her back together. It's running great. I have a very slight hesitation starting from an idle, but it runs great from about 1500 rpms and up. Thats why I decided I needed to check the timing. The check engine light is not on, so no error codes. The way I looked at it, I need the truck to move to my new Wifes house 130 miles away. To save $150 I would pull the intake. So it was worth the gamble to me. When I get moved if I neeed to pull it back down I will.

Thanks again guys! This board has been a huge help. This engine has always scared me a little, but it wasn't so bad. The heads were in good shape, I just had an external gasket leak on the rear of the drivers side head. I got it apart and discoverd a chiped cam thrust face, so new cam, then I got to learn how to adjust the valves on this thing. But it all went back together and cranked w/ no problem.

Anthony

You made it pretty far without the check engine light coming on, you might get lucky. Most who don't the light usually comes on in about a month or two. At any rate you should get to the new house no problem.

[quote]then I got to learn how to adjust the valves on this thing[\quote]

Aftre reading how it was supposed to be done, I didn't even attempt it, it looked like to much of a PITA. I had the head shop do it when the rebuilt the heads this past spring, it made re-assembly a piece of cake.