I just got my C223 diesel engine that I will be putting in my Trooper a week ago. The engine came out of a 2WD truck and I ask will this 2WD model engine sit into the 4WD Trooper without any clearance problems? I know that there were differences between the C223 in a 2WD and 4WD, being that the oil pan and oil pump are different. If the 2WD engine doesn't work, can I put on a 4WD oil pan and then drop it into the Trooper without clearance problems? I do plan on a 2.5" suspension lift on the Trooper and have heard after you do a lift usually you don't have to worry about the oil pan hitting things. If I were to have to put on a 4WD oil pan, does any member here have one they could sell? Also, the engine I got is froze up because of 2 glow plugs missing and water getting into those holes where the glow plugs screw into the cylinder head. The clutch disc and pressure plate have been taken off, tried to turn the engine with a large wrench but won't turn over. Have put kerosene in it to try to unlock, but what else can I do to free up the engine? Thanks.

I would imagine you would only need a 4WD pan if you have a front diff and drive shaft?

i have a friend who restores antique tractors. he says the best way to free up a rust seized engine is to fill the cylinders with vinager and let sit over night. the tractors he restores are usually found in fence rows and havent been touched for 50 years. if it works on these tractors im sure it will work on your engine.

rvd, thanks for the recommendation on the vinegar to free up the engine I have. I didn't know vinegar could be used to unlock an engine and you learn something new every day. I am going to try to put some vinegar in the engine today as a matter of fact and hope to be able to turn it freely the next day.

rvd, is there a specific vinegar you should use just for the task of unlocking an engine? I bought distilled white vinegar that is reduced with water to 5% acidity from the grocery store and I am unsure of its ability to do the job. The vinegar is clear like water. I have had kerosene in the cylinders of the engine for almost 2 weeks and it is still froze up. I hope the right vinegar will do the job for it though. I appreciate further info and thanks.

Kerosene is too thick to really pentrate, even over long periods. I've never used the vinegar method although I have done several old trators also, but usually with WD40 or some other penetrating oil, sometimes left in for weeks and for the really stuck ones 6 months.
Further really nasty methods are:

A big block of wood and a hammer on top of the piston. (disconnect the con rods so it's one at a time).

Warm up the block and use dry ice or liquid nitrogen on the piston as well as the wooden block and hammer. I have had one that I was defeated by all of the above.

These harsher methods however may not be a good idea on a 'modern' lightly built piston and block such as yours... It desperiate stuff if you do.

I've also heard that some folks soak the entire block in a drum of diesel... much the same as the kerosene solution suggested above, but for a longer period of time.

Randii

I have unstuck every kind of stuck there is. Unfortunately, about 50%-75% of the time you need months worth of soaking. If you have time, soak as much as you can. The product you use must only do three things:

1 - Penetrate and lubricate
2 - Penetrate and lubricate
3 - Penetrate and lubricate

Forget Coke(yes, I hear Coca-Cola a lot), vinegar, or any other acid. Just converts the first rust it sees into a compound that is larger in volume in the rust and isn't that great for the native metal. This new crud the acid created becomes a seal, making any further application of anything worthless. Just lots of very light oil - WD-40, PB-Blaster, that kind of stuff. STAY AWAY from brake fluid, ATF and similar. Attracts moisture and could compound your problem. Diesel and kerosene work OK but are not as good as penetrants.

If you don't have that kind of time, Soak for a day or two and then pressure has to be applied. My favorite method is disconnecting the connecting rod and using a shop press. In my experience, if this doesn't work, nothing will work. A large hammer and wood block approximates this.

If pressure doesn't work, break the top off of the piston from below by hammering on a hardened steel rod placed beside the piston pin. This will free it up. The act of breaking the top out of the piston narrows the skirt. This works EVERY time. I have several pistons laying around with holes in the top <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Couple other warnings/hints/tips:

Apply the soaking product from below also.

Careful with that breaker bar on the pulley nut. Very rarely works and usually just trashes your crankshaft. Maybe just a quick bounce or two to see if it will give it up, but don't over do it.

Dragging the vehicle may work, just be sure you drive train can handle it.

I wrote a book on rebuilding farm engines and covers some of this stuff. In general would help with any kind of a rebuild - not just farm engines. You can get it from Amazon.com. Here is the link

Hope this all helps,

NCDiesel

Thanks everyone for the great information. I believe trying a penetrating oil may be a good idea and will try with WD-40. I have to admit I have not been patient and expected the engine to be unlocked in a few weeks. Now I have realized that whatever oil I use I will have to let it soak for at least a few months. Seems like my engine is froze up pretty bad, but I am 99.9% sure the engine has less than 175,000 miles and is still in good shape. Also, can anybody chime in about whether a suspension lift will prevent my 2WD C223 engine from working in a 4WD Trooper with it having the front axle and driveshaft in the way? I have heard of 2WD engines fitting into a 4WD chassis after one has lifted their vehicle and believe I can do it on my Trooper diesel.