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Wheel spacers for stock alloys??? #564645 02/07/05 08:29 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 92
mr_spicoli Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
I want a little different offset without buying new wheels as I like the stock alloys. Has anyone ever used wheel spacers with stock alloys? I think I would get a 1ö or 1.5ö spacer to push the edge of the tire out to line up with the wheel wells.

I was able to find quite a few manufacturers but just wonder if these compromise the integrity of the hubs/wheels. I know I should probably stay away from cast wheel spacers. I was looking at the machined aluminum 6061(stronger than 6063?) or steel spacers. IÆm assuming the steel would be heavier but stronger.

The majority of my driving is on-road/commuting. No rock crawling here in MN, just some minimum maintenance roads and trails.

Most manufacturers say "Use at your own risk/Off-road use only." I surely donÆt want a wheel falling off at 70mph in rush hour <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Last edited by mr_spicoli; 02/07/05 08:30 PM.

2000 Rodeo LSE
Re: Wheel spacers for stock alloys??? [Re: mr_spicoli] #564646 02/07/05 08:47 PM
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 92
mr_spicoli Offline OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
I did find this:
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...mp;amp;o=&fpart=all&vc=1

But what about Steel vs. Machined Aluminum?


2000 Rodeo LSE
Re: Wheel spacers for stock alloys??? [Re: mr_spicoli] #564647 02/07/05 11:00 PM
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,394
houlster Offline
Isuzu Moderator
Here's another. Make sure you use the type with their own set of lugs and I think you'll be fine. I'm up to 6 - 7 year on the rear now. 4 or 5 years on the front before my SAS. Never a problem with the spindle, bearings, loose lug nuts or anything else. Mine are aluminum, but only because steel ones weren't around when I got them.

--Dan

Re: Wheel spacers for stock alloys??? [Re: houlster] #564648 02/07/05 11:09 PM
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 598
ducktrooper Offline
Rock Warrior
Has anyone done spacers for stock alloy wheels for a 98+ Trooper? If so, what did you do?

Will 1" spacers provide added stability with a 3" lift?


'99 Trooper, ARBs, 4.77s, ARB bullbar, Warn M8000 w/Amsteel, OME 912s w/2.5" spacers, Rancho 9000xs, K&N/Magnaflow, 33" Kumho MT's, Aisins, boulder bars, Indy 4X brake lines, diff drop, Flexalite
Re: Wheel spacers for stock alloys??? [Re: ducktrooper] #564649 02/07/05 11:26 PM
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,810
paulevans76 Offline
Body Damage is Cool
I have heard horror stories, but it was due to the owner not re-torquing the nuts. make sure you have enough stud for the nuts and make sure to re-torque and all should be well. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />


88 Troop - Posing yard art
Re: Wheel spacers for stock alloys??? [Re: ducktrooper] #564650 02/09/05 03:21 AM
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,385
Chris Perosi Offline
Isuzu Staffer Emeritus
Quote
Will 1" spacers provide added stability with a 3" lift?


This has always been a source of debate especially among die-hard physics fans, but IMHO, yes, widening the track of a vehicle in any way shape or form will ALWAYS add to vehicular stability. Now, the reason it's up for debate would be that if you take two bricks with the same weight, but one is wider than the other (given same exact height and weight) the center of gravity is the same. So therefore, theoretically, widening a vehicle should have the same exact (lack of) effect that widening a brick would, as far as center of gravity goes. By the laws of physics, certainly, this is, in fact, the case.

However, what throws this one for a loop is that we're not dealing with a brick here. For all intents and purposes we're dealing with a brick mounted on a chassis, with springs and shocks and links and such. That being said, when you widen just the chassis, and leave the brick as-is, you change the fulcrum points as the body of the truck (the brick) leans over top of the tires. In other words, if your tires are in line with the outer edge of the body, the outside of the tires would be the fulcrum, and the moment of force about the object would be applied at that point, the edge of the tire. Additionally, at some point, the springs/shocks/links will max out and want to lift the opposing side tires.

But if you move that edge, say, two inches outside of the body of the truck, the moment of force will still be applied to the fulcrum, but now that point isn't quite at the edge of the tire, it's inside the edge, and, in fact, will help keep the tire's edge firmly planted on the ground. Eventually, of course, the forces will overcome this and begin to try to pivot on the outside edge... But until then, it should at least *feel* more stable. The rotational forces will push harder and harder downward on the tire as the body leans, and will make it very difficult to get that tire to rollover to the edge/shoulder. The further out you move the tires, the more you will feel this -- that being said, I noticed a DISTINCT difference between stability on +38mm offset rims vs. neutral offset, a difference of only 1.5 inches when you do the math.

By the way, this debate has basically gone on for years, so I'm sure someone will chime in with their take on why I'm wrong. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> But if I could draw it up and post the drawing, you'd see exactly what I'm saying and you'd totally understand. (as would the naysayers....)

HTH,
Chris


Chris Perosi
Isuzu Editor Emeritus
OutdoorWire, Inc.







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