1995 Troop 5spd 4wd Horn stoped working out of the blue. Fuses checked then replaced, relay replaced. I can make the horns work by taking the cover off the relay and manually making the coil close, leading me to believe that downstream of the relay is OK. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Took apart the steering wheel (a 4mm allen wrench fits inside the torx for the airbag FWIW) Switches on wheel seem to work, normally open, completes circuit to ground when pressed, I checked above and below the connector ring in the steering wheel with the same result... So long story short any ideas where to look for broken wires? or any diagnostic I may have missed TIA
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

If the horn itself under the hood works when you try it from under there , could it be sticking alittle?I know in my work van , my horn stopped all the sudden after our new paint jobs , I thought they might have shorted something out and blew the fuse on me.I checked that out and it was fine , then I thought the horn had just died period , but found out that sometimes they stick.Just give it a whack , and see if that helps out at all.Thats all mine needed , a whack to loosen up whatever had gotten stuck on it , and it works fine now , and if it dies again , I know what to do before I start checking anything else other than the fuse.

I just keep thinking about the bumper sticker: "Horn broke - Watch for finger"

I am not sure on your vehicle, but many horns are wired a bit different using something I always called "ground side" wiring(I am not sure that is the right nonmenclature). Anyways, the ground side of the circuit has the switch instead of the "hot" side. I understand this is actually becoming more common even in American vehicles.

This makes us Americans who are used to hot side switches crazy when we test because you will have 12 volts at the horn all the time, but of course you usually only test when someone is mashing the horn so you think everything is fine all the way to the horn so it must be horn or ground. Not so in ground side switching. Your switch can be bad, wiring back to the switch can be bad, ground splice can be bad, etc.

Just something to keep in mind. Hope it helps,

NCDiesel

That was actually the original title of this thread but it was removed for some reason :shrug: Thanks for the help though <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

That was actually the original title of this thread but it was removed for some reason :shrug:

Welcome to the forum. As a reminder, please take the time to read the guideline posts at the top of both the Talk and the Tech forums.

It was changed because, while it was intended in humor, it was not appropriate for this forum and it did not add to the value of your question.

Michael

Welcome to the forum. As a reminder, please take the time to read the guideline posts at the top of both the Talk and the Tech forums.
-will do <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />
It was changed because, while it was intended in humor, it was not appropriate for this forum and it did not add to the value of your question.
-my apologies and thanks for being pleasant about it
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