I've been having problems with my ignition switch lately. When the key is inserted sometimes (quite often) it will not turn. It acts like it's the wrong key (or a bad key) but it is in fact the correct key. The local dealership has even cut several new keys for me (for free <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> ) but the probelm seems to persist with old and new keys alike. I removed the ignition switch this past weekend and checked the tumbler and all the mechanisims seem to be clean. I cleaned it out well, applied a little lube, and reinstalled it with no noticable improvement. Maybe it's just worn out after 10 years and 150K??

So a few questions. Does anyone have any suggestions? The stealership "offered" to replace it for me for right around $300... that was very thoughtful of them. Has anyone bought a new ignition switch and replaced it on thier own? What about the other keyed locks like the doors and the gas cap cover? And what would I need to buy? I saw on one site they offered an "Ignition lock cylinder" and an "Ignition switch". What are the differences between these two parts?
T100 Igniton Parts

And thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I'd like to get this fixed before I am unable to start my truck at all. As is, it's like picking a lock every time I try to start it... it's very very tricky.


Thanks,


jm

I've been experiencing the same problem. I also cleaned and lubed the cylinder and it worked better for a few months. I am wondering if it is the key more than the cylinder. Did the dealer cut new keys from your existing key. If so, the old key might be worn out and new keys cut from it will have the same characteristics. Can the dealer cut new keys or order new keys with just the cylinder number? This would ensure a good new key with no worn defects.

I "think" the dealer cuts new keys by using just the cylinder number and not the old key. At least I'm pretty sure that's what they told me. FYI.


jm

I have noticed that if the key wont turn, try moving the steering wheel. If the front wheels are turned and the steering wheel is tight against the "lock", then sometimes the key wont turn until you move the steering wheel a little.

If you still have you original owner's manual the selling dealer is "supposed" to write the key code number inside it. They can cut a key from that code.

You had said that you had cleaned the tumblers and lubed them. My question is,what did you use to lube them? I always use the "Graphite Lubricant" to lube all my ignition and door locks with. I normally do it once a year, just as a preventative measure. Anything else will just gum up the works in a lock. Try that before going the replacement route.
Oh, you can buy a small tube of the stuff at Autozone, Advance Auto or a similar auto parts store for about $2-3, I think.

Surely, you have a spare key,(spouse,emergency,etc.) One that doesnt get hardly any use. Have you gotten the same results from them? I agree with Kook. My steering wheel gets bound up from time to time. Turning the wheel, as I turn the key, works every time.If none of these options help,it would almost have to be the ignition. Good luck!

Lets see... I used a graphite lube that I picked up at a local AutoZone. I have quite a few keys, both old and new, and they all work just about the same. Some a little better than others (the newer ones) but even the "better" ones have trouble turning in the ignition switch. I'm positive it has nothing to do with turning the steering wheel... I even have/had the same trouble with the switch when I removed it from the truck completely.

So... Has anyone bought a new ignition switch and replaced it on thier own? What about the other keyed locks like the doors and the gas cap cover? And what would I need to buy? I saw on one site they offered an "Ignition lock cylinder" and an "Ignition switch". What are the differences between these two parts?


Thanks,


jm

The lock cylinder would be just the part the key fits into without any electronic parts attached. Dunno if the cylinder comes out of these seperately or not, but it should. The ignition should be the whole assembly with the lock cylinder. I would take it to a reputable locksmith and he could tell you what you have, what you need, and can set it up so your original key would work in it. Did you try to douche it out with some no-residue contact cleaner spray? Try that and after it dries use the graphite.

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