Typically you need to be running really rich to poop a cat. Like a misfiring cylinder that's left unfixed.

The propane test I performed was to take a propane torch and a rubber hose, push the rubber hose over the end of the torch and turn the gas on and use the end of the hose to run around the edge of the manifold.

More or less the same test as the carb cleaner, only a bit more plastic/rubber friendly.

You really should be getting a code thrown if it would be the TPS.

I still lean toward the IMG.

Joe

Chris,

I can tell you for a fact that it's your wiring harness issues.

I've installed numerous MAF or Fuel map altering computers for other SuperCharged and TurboCharged cars, and EVERY SINGLE ONE INSISTS on the use of solder for the connections.

The reason is that the signal that comes from your MAF or Karman Sensor is a waveform, NOT a pure on/off voltage signal. If the contact is not PERFECT, the MAF reading will be off horrendously, and this causes VERY poor fuel metering. A couple of the installs I did were done like you said, 'wrapped and taped' and brought to me problematic. Proper soldering and shrink wrap session fixed it all.

This is where your wierd idle comes from. (seen it before; change in metering happens to fast compared to throttle response, and you stall)
This is where your misfires are coming from. (seen it before; overly rich metering)
This is where your flashing CEL comes from. (seen it before; too lean and you're knocking bad)

Coupled with a Supercharger or Turbocharger, you are thus led directly into the realm of short or overzealous fuel supply and HEAVY pre-detonation (knock) from erratic fuel supply at times (as shown by wierd exhaust patterns for burnt fuel levels)

These are all bad things that can lead to VERY bad things in a forced induction motor. Your highest immediate priority is to resolve this.

If you don't have a soldering iron, and the experience, let me know, and I'll do it for you when I meet up with eventually; a good ECU soldering job for 30 to 50 wires should take NO LESS THAN AN HOUR when done right. I know this sounds like alot of time to invest, but each and every connection should be treated with that much care; the ECU's job is that important when making sure it can 'hear' or 'talk' to every connected component properly.

E.

Have you looked at your spark plugs? Maybe you should try an MSD ignitions to burn all that fuel

kevan

Well, OK, but that's gonna push off me looking for that soft top for ya. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />



Got it and got it, I'll take care of it ASAP.



Pfft, an hour is NO time to invest, besides, the piggyback had maybe only 4 or 5 wires that were cut and spliced...

Thanks for the advice, I'll get on that right away...

Oh, one more thing that might help us be sure this is the problem -- the piggyback seems to interfere with radio reception, and the closer it is to the back of the radio, the more it interferes... Does that sound like it might help prove the problem is in the wiring?

-Chris

hahaaha.

Honestly, this is that important. Take care of the wiring first before the soft top.

Heck, before you even turn the ignition key again.

Poor fuel metering can KILL a forced induction motor inside of 10 seconds if it's at 'just the wrong time' (say, under boost during a WOT run)

If it's only 5 wires, all the more reason to do it right.

And I mean, 'right'. The whole nine yards. Strip wires, make sure they're clean and straight, (degrease and abrade slightly) point them at each other, slip shrink wrap over one, give them an opposing twist, and then solder and shrink over the entire joint.

It's entirely possible the radio could be picking up ground noise from the system, since an incomplete circuit in a waveform signal coming down a wire basically becomes a radiating element. (ie, an antenna with an RF signal being emitted) Normally, the signal is conducted properly and won't emit this RF, but since it's a broken link, it just becomes a radiating element, which will dump it's RF into the surrounding Grounded/shielding. Which, your radio uses to balance out the RF it gets from FM reception. Or, uses to shield against lower levels of RF when running other source material through the amplifier.

Some people say I'm anal when I work on cars. I don't argue that.

But then again, I'm usually the first person people choose to work on their stuff. LMAO.

Oh, and when you're done, after romping on the pedal a bit to test, go find out about that softop. RFLMAO.

E.

BTW,

Be sure to clean and gap your plugs after you correct the mis-wiring job, and then reset your ECU by leaving battery cable off with headlights on for at least 30 seconds.

The Fuel map will probably be way off from before the repair, and it's better to just zero it and let it start over.

E.

Help me out. Why does he need to leave his headlights on? Not questioning you <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />, just wanting to understand. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

To drain all the juice out of it. It just makes it faster and makes sure it resets it

kevan

^ What he said. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

E.

I'll vouche for that! We've killed the motor in the race car inside of 4 seconds from having the lean outs on just a tad too long. That gets expensive too!



All you really need to do is pull the positive cable off and touch it to the negative cable or a good ground and it will clear the ECM immediately. This is the "Isuzu" recommended way.