Replacing the head on my '92 amigo, how do you remove the head bolts without stripping them?

thanks

Steven C

All it takes is a 10mm hex socket. You can find these at any auto parts store. Just buy the 10mm hex for the end of a ratchet. Shouldn't be too hard to get them to break loose. Oh, and they are reuseable. A lot of manufacturers use stretch head bolts that you can't reuse, but these can be reused as they are not stretch head bolts. Just clean the threads really well, tap the block, and use a die on the threads.

Richard <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

have the 10mm hex socket, even with a 1/2" socket and 3ft cheater pipe the only thing i've managed to do is strip the bolts out <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Shouldn't be that hard to remove. I did it with just a regular breaker bar. Try spraying some penetrant down on them. I've, and many others, have found that PB Blaster works miracles on stubborn bolts/nuts.

Richard <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

i had one stuck one on my 2.6 that stripped. i ended up having to weld a nut to the head of it. if you have to do that, pull the cam out for clearance and get ALL of the oil out of there. i layed several wet rags around the area i was welding too to help prevent fire. you could also try a large EZ out. be aware welding may warp/damage the head if you're reusing it...

I've never stripped one, but a few felt like they were ready to slip before it broke loose. Try giving it a little "love tap" before you turn and your first turn with the cheater bar should be a quick snap! Not a gentle slow torque. Sometimes oil gets down in there after time and acts like locktight. Good luck! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Last head I did I had one bolt that just refused to come out before the head stripped out completely. I grabbed a 1/2" drive drill and a bit just about the same size as the head bolt shaft. To catch the bits I packed some old rags near it a set a magnet close by. A little bit of time drilling and the head of the bolt was gone The head was free to lift up over the headless shaft. Once the head was out of the way, I buzzed the top of the left over bolt shaft with the grinder on two sides to get a grip on it. It came right out with a few taps of a hammer and turn of the wrench.

If you need to replace bolts when you are done, you can get a set from www.headbolts.com for fairly reasonable. I have never ordered from them, but have not heard of any complaints about their service or parts.

I have and they are very good, order got here a couple of days early <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


Madcat <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Does your 10mm socket head have a bevel on the end of it. If it does, cut the end of it off flat. When you do, you will find you can get deeper into the bolt.

Be sure you tap the socket into the hole in the bolt with a hammer before you start, to get it to the bottom of the hole. The holes in the bolts can catch gunk and keep the allen wrench from bottoming out. Plus the tapping with a hammer helps to get the bolt loose. If you have stripped the head out completely, Sears makes a stripped/rounded head bolt remover that should get it out. The Craftsman socketed bolt remover has teeth cut on the inside that will cut into the outside of the bolt head and believe me, with a two or three foot brake over bar, something will eventually give.