All of a sudden I heard a high-pitch sound when I was stopped. When I open the hood, the noise is coming from the rear. When I let the clutch out it stops. A few days ago my clutch felt like it was slipping a little while engaging, but holds when let all the way out. It's a dual friction. Any ideas?

TO bearing south Or the pilot bearing, or the thrust bearings on the mains!!!!! I am betting on the first one!!!

OK to drive on it? I assume that if the trany gets opened, the clutch needs replacing or is there a way to "slip" bearings in quickly and quietly?

You're SOL on it being easy; pretend you're changin the clutch. That's what you get to line yourself up for.

Thanks for the help OOPS & Kewlynx.

How novice friendly? Like a diff, not a good idea to open first one on your own?

Since the Centerforce is one of the items I don't have interest in buying again, any suggestions on which clutch to get? What about Downey?

Don't know about Downey; I can get CF clutches locally.

Ain't too bad. Gotta rent the following:
Tranny jack and rachet strap; it WILL try to roll on you.
Air if you don't have it, you'll wish you did <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
2' x 1/2" dr bull bar
17mm toggle socket for the top 2 bolts (double check yer size)
Torque wrench.

Stuff for oil change; easier to reach the inner starter bolt with the filter outta the way.

Disconnect battery <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Mark/drop driveline (to reconnect back in-phase)
Unbolt 4 bolts thru holes in crossmember (for the vibe plate)
Disconnect bellhousing, starter bolts, slave cylinder, and exhaust clamp
May need to remove shifters; depends on how much room you need.

Pull aft, replace TO bearing; inspect the pilot bearing also. Your call on if you want to replace the clutch or not. If so, take the time to get the flywheel resurfaced, or you'll be back under there in 4 months. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

Give yourself a day; book time is 5 hours. Put on the crockpot for dinner and get a pizza for your breaks. Good to have a helper who knows to leave the beer on ice until yer done.

Thanks for the detail.

Do you think the Centerforce is worth the price then?

Is it urgent? Do I have a better chance of saving the clutch the earlier I do it? I looked at my records and the clutch has 45,000 miles (vast majority highway).

I have a 3 ton hydraulic jack - will that work for the tranny?

Do I need a press for the bearings or anything? Do I need an alignment tool if I don't replace the clutch?

Thanks again for the help!

On the CF, depends on how heavy you wheel; otherwise just stick with a stocker if your wallet is a bit thin.

Highway miles on clutch looks fine, but I don't know if you're one of those folks who rides theirs. All relative to driving style.

TO bearing no press; just make sure your clips are in place. It rides on the clutch fork that your slave cylinder operates; you'll see it. I tried to find a photo for ya, but no luck.

Pilot bearing; they make a puller, but I use a dowel and wet newspaper if popping one out. You'd need the alignment tool if pulling the flywheel,as the clutch plate is on the other side of it. If you're sure it's the TO bearing you're fine.

NO-- rent a friggin' tranny jack and be done with it, esp if doing it alone and unless you have good insurance. It's a LOT cheaper than any injury you'd inflict on yourself.

NOW-- go get an FSM for yer birthday, and good luck!

That floor jack won't do the job. It almost does the job on a 2wd transmission, but not at all on the 4wd transmission with the transfer case attached. With the transfer case it's going to roll over on its side, and flip off the jack.

You don't need a special clutch alignment tool. You can do just fine with a dowel and some tape. Just get the clutch disc hole centered to the crankshaft hole and you're good to go. It's not an ultra precise alignment. If you're uncomfortable with that, get the little tool. In fact, many clutch kits include it.

As for reusing your old clutch, inspect it and see. 45k miles isn't a lot, but it isn't new either. But mostly it depends on how you drive. Lots of people could successfully wear a clutch out in that time. Since it's a replacement clutch, look at the springs in it, as many times aftermarket clutches use cheap springs and you find things aren't in good shape there.

The pilot bearing is a bit of a bugger on Toyota's because of it's design. It's not a bushing, it's a bearing, ball or roller (forgot which). That means it's very prone to rusting it's inner race solid to the transmission input shaft. Also makes driving it out a bit more of a challenge. Make sure your replacement is the correct size. For whatever reason, most clutch companies and parts stores will list the wrong pilot bearing for every vehicle.