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Re: overheating checklist .....help
[Re: wsquaredodie]
#606910
08/30/06 09:55 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 197
Wheeler
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Try running it without a thermostat. I've bought a new t-stat from them before, and it was bad right out of the box. If running without it works, then you have found the problem. Good luck, JB
J-Bird
'95.5 T, SR5, Bone stock w/32x11.50's '06 Sonata LX
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Re: overheating checklist .....help
[Re: fishy97t100]
#606911
08/31/06 12:54 AM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 159
Wheeler
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fan - fan works, fan clutch: works fine (doesnt spin freely)
Are you sure the clutch is working properly? When the engine is first started (cold), the clutch should drive the fan for at least the first few seconds -- and with the hood open, and the engine at fast idle due to the cold start, it will be VERY noticeable -- both noise and airflow. After the first few seconds, the clutch should release and the fan should almost freewheel, the noise (and airflow) should be much less. Depending on the ambient air temperature, with the engine at idle, the fan may not have to "kick in" to draw enough air to keep the engine cool. However, at the slow speeds you describe, and under load of moving the vehicle on the trails, the freewheeling fan (if the clutch is not "kicking in") may not be pulling enough air. To check this, try to introduce a restriction (i.e. a towel, cardboard, etc.) in front of the radiator to block the airflow. Start the engine (preferably cold, so you can get a feel for how much air and noise the fan should make when the clutch is engaged), and then let the engine idle. If the clutch is working properly, the fan will disengage after the first few seconds (and quiet down), and then (time depends on the ambient temp, etc.) after a while, when the small amount of air that is coming past your restriction gets hot enough, the fan clutch should sense the heat and engage again, making the same amount of noise (and pushing the same amount of air) as it did immediately after start up. There is an "old wives tale" that says that fan clutches lose about 10% of their efficiency each year, or 10,000 miles. I've found this to be almost spot on with the GM vehicles I've owned, and on the other hand, have had a Toyota 3.0 go well over 100,000 without needing a new clutch. If the radiator is not partially (or mostly) clogged, and the thermostat is in fact working, my money is on the fan clutch as the culprit. Good luck!
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Re: overheating checklist .....help
[Re: Whizkidder]
#606912
08/31/06 04:47 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 197
Wheeler
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These toyota clutch fans are designed to, "fail to lock". Another words, they stay in the locked up state when they fail. Thats why they sound so loud all the time, when they go bad. Stranger things have happened though.
J-Bird
'95.5 T, SR5, Bone stock w/32x11.50's '06 Sonata LX
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Re: overheating checklist .....help
[Re: Whizkidder]
#606913
09/01/06 01:47 PM
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 179
Wheeler
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my T was overheating in stop & go traffic, 95 deg outdoor temp. the fan clutch was not engaging. replaced the clutch...no more elevated engine temps. 240K miles. tom fan - fan works, fan clutch: works fine (doesnt spin freely)
Are you sure the clutch is working properly? When the engine is first started (cold), the clutch should drive the fan for at least the first few seconds -- and with the hood open, and the engine at fast idle due to the cold start, it will be VERY noticeable -- both noise and airflow. After the first few seconds, the clutch should release and the fan should almost freewheel, the noise (and airflow) should be much less. Depending on the ambient air temperature, with the engine at idle, the fan may not have to "kick in" to draw enough air to keep the engine cool. However, at the slow speeds you describe, and under load of moving the vehicle on the trails, the freewheeling fan (if the clutch is not "kicking in") may not be pulling enough air. To check this, try to introduce a restriction (i.e. a towel, cardboard, etc.) in front of the radiator to block the airflow. Start the engine (preferably cold, so you can get a feel for how much air and noise the fan should make when the clutch is engaged), and then let the engine idle. If the clutch is working properly, the fan will disengage after the first few seconds (and quiet down), and then (time depends on the ambient temp, etc.) after a while, when the small amount of air that is coming past your restriction gets hot enough, the fan clutch should sense the heat and engage again, making the same amount of noise (and pushing the same amount of air) as it did immediately after start up. There is an "old wives tale" that says that fan clutches lose about 10% of their efficiency each year, or 10,000 miles. I've found this to be almost spot on with the GM vehicles I've owned, and on the other hand, have had a Toyota 3.0 go well over 100,000 without needing a new clutch. If the radiator is not partially (or mostly) clogged, and the thermostat is in fact working, my money is on the fan clutch as the culprit. Good luck!
95 T100 SR5 Xcab 4X4
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Re: overheating checklist .....help
[Re: J_Bird]
#606914
09/03/06 12:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 39
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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These toyota clutch fans are designed to, "fail to lock". Another words, they stay in the locked up state when they fail. Thats why they sound so loud all the time, when they go bad. Stranger things have happened though. If the clutch is working properly, the fan will disengage after the first few seconds (and quiet down), and then (time depends on the ambient temp, etc.) after a while, when the small amount of air that is coming past your restriction gets hot enough, the fan clutch should sense the heat and engage again, making the same amount of noise (and pushing the same amount of air) as it did immediately after start up.
So even if they fail, they stay locked?..which means it shouldnt be the cause of overheating as it draws air all the time? I think the fan clutch is working propery. It is louder, spins faster and draws more air on first 15 seconds and then quiets down at cold start. I took it for a drive and parked it with the engine running. I placed a cardboard infront of the radiator for about 10 min. It didnt engage. I even blasted the AC on for a few minutes. It is about 80 degrees outside. How long will it take for the clutch to engage? Few things I forgot to mention: the water temp gauge stays at halfway even if its already over heating. It starts at L and goes up halfway as the engine warms up. Although, it creeps 3/4 up when I drove it on the highway when it was 100+ degrees. Oil pressure gauge hovers at 1/8way at idle and goes up to 1/3-1/2way up as rpm goes up.
1997 T100 SR5 xxcab 4WD 5spd D44, AAM 11.5, dual case
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Re: overheating checklist .....help
[Re: fishy97t100]
#606915
09/03/06 06:46 AM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 159
Wheeler
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If the engine overheats before the fan kicks back in, I'm thinking the fan clutch is bad. I've never heard about the "fail to lock" deal...
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Re: overheating checklist .....help
[Re: Whizkidder]
#606916
09/03/06 04:37 PM
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 179
Wheeler
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mine definitely didn't fail to lock.
95 T100 SR5 Xcab 4X4
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Re: overheating checklist .....help
[Re: TomPoh]
#606917
09/09/06 05:48 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 39
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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I may have found the problem. After burning my hand, I found a cold spot on the radiator...pretty much the middle section. This means that it is clogged correct? Any advice when a getting a new radiator? OEM or aftermarket?
1997 T100 SR5 xxcab 4WD 5spd D44, AAM 11.5, dual case
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Re: overheating checklist .....help
[Re: fishy97t100]
#606918
09/09/06 06:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 19
Need a Spot
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I had similar problems on my Æ97 T100. Mine would run fine until I started slowing down after running at highway speed then temp would creep up into the red and stay. After replacing cap, thermostat, water pump and fan clutch with no results û only thing left was the radiator which looked perfectly fine on the outside. I replaced it and all problems were cured.
Not sure what this boardÆs policy is on naming stores so IÆll say that I ordered one over the internet from a major internet radiator supplier in Jacksonville, Florida. It was brand new, all metal, lifetime guaranteed, well painted, û delivered to the house in 2 days for $170 total price including shipping. Somewhat surprisingly, it was an exact fit û all the bolt holes lined up, transmission lines fit perfectly, no installation problems at all. I have had no problems with it and donÆt mind recommending this place.
Bob's 97
97 T-100, 4WD, bone stock except for MP3 player/radio 80 CJ5 Jeep (Trigger) w/ 225k miles and so rusted that tetanus shot required to ride in it
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Re: overheating checklist .....help
[Re: bobs97]
#606919
09/10/06 03:15 PM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 658
Rock Warrior
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Strongly suggest NOT using the tranny line connections to the radiator. Instead, go to an aftermarket cooler, bigger the better. You are "cooling" your tranny fluid with 190 degree water...........
trafdlo
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