A local 4x4 shop told me that I needed to have my bearings repacked and proceeded to drop a pretty hefty $$$ amount on me to do the work. Asking around I've found that the best time to do those is when you replace the front brake pads (since everything is off and you can get at them easier). A local alignment shop said the same thing - and were actually a little dodgy about doing them because of the bearing set-up being 'sealed' and something about a pre-load?

I'm not the most mechanically competent guy in the world, nor do I claim to be, but in a normal world I'd go grab a Chilton manual and get some input before attempting this myself. The only thing stopping me is the dollar amount of the Chilton for my truck's year - $120? OUCH!

Has anyone done this before and can any tips be given on what I'm about to undertake?? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Any replies would be helpful - thanks!

Front wheel bearings are relatively easy to do, but I'd suggest buying a set of factory service manuals to familiarize yourself with the procedure - particularly the bearing pre-load and starting torque settings.

Wheel bearings can be packed with a press packer or the old fashioned way - by hand (that's the way I still do it). Just load a palm full of grease in one hand and grab the bearing with a couple of fingers through the circle and press it into the palm with the grease - scraping and rotating the bearing assembly as you go until clean grease squirts out all around. It's a bit hard on the fingers, but I still think it's the best method as the grease is warmed a little as you work it.

THERE IS AN INNER AND OUTER BEARING.... BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN NOT TO MIX UP THE BEARINGS POSITION WITHIN THE WHEEL ASSEMBLY!

A special axle locknut tool is needed to apply pre-load. The standard shop version is expensive (about $80) but one can be made from a 3/4 ton Ford or GM wheel bearing socket (forgot which one) that has 6 points on it by grinding off 4 points and leaving 2. You can get one of those at any parts house - cheap.

You'll need a torque wrench to get the pre-load and a spring scale (fishing scale will do) or an educated finger to get the starting torque correct.

If you do a search, there should be instructions on this job somewhere on this site - or maybe someone can direct you to the write-up. If you can't find what you need, let us know and someone will guide you through the procedure.

Good luck,
Frank

I have one of the sockets, but I haven't ground off the extra four points. You are welcome to borrow it if you want.

John B.

I got one of the Ford tools. It only has four points so you only have to grind off two. Not that it is much easier than grinding off four points.