I did some searching looking for confirmation on bleeding the brakes - I have a CHiltons which says do it with the engine running, yes? Then, they do not indicate the traditional order - right rear, and then around to the closest - what gives?

On the new pads, dealer only, or is NAPA OK.

While we're at it - your opinions on CHilton's - it seems to be a bit lacking in some areas, cheers!

Start with the wheel farthest away from the MC. RR, LR, RF, LF. Engine running might make things easier.

Napa pads are fine, Chilton manuals suck. So do Haynes.

No. that's a new one to me. so i checked my chilton's too, and it does say that. for those that haven't seen it, it says in boldface type with an arrow: --> The vacuum booster will be damaged if the bleeding operation is performed with the engine OFF. i think that is nonsense,IMHO, maybe even a typo. i'd bet there is a better chance of damage to the booster diaphragm with the engine on -- with the hydraulic system open and the vacuum boost working, you stand a chance of extending the pushrod too far, and thus the booster's diaphragm as well.

that's just weird. later, BTW, they caution to HAVE the engine OFF if you have four wheel antilock brakes, so you don't cause CEL codes. oh, well...

i'd do what the factory workshop manual by helms says to do:

1. master cylinder, if necessary,




what kind of anti-lock brake system is on your's -- rear only or all four wheels. the helms book has more to say about the 4 wheel antilock system, which i'll give you if you need.

here's the link for factory manual's from helm inc. expensive and good, prorated over more work, maybe not so expensive.



my vote is dealer only. they last forever. quiet. etc.


good luck

Interesting guys, thanks. I have just the rear wheel ABS by the way.

A side note on Chilton's - If I recall, it also says the wheel bearings are sealed, or do not have to be serviced, which contradicts our owners manual.

Any comments on this mistake too? Guess I should spring for the good book!

ANother note on this - in looking at a CD version of the factory manual I just received, it also indicates bleeding with the engine on - does everyone concur?

I have bled brakes on a number of vehicles now , and have never had the engine running.I have also watched mechanics do brake bleeding on my work truck , which I am not allowed to do the service on , and it is never running to bleed the brakes either.

OK, thanks.

as noted above == i don't concur, but...

a "factory manual"?? is this from helms? (if not, it's not factory manual)

if it is helms, can you give a little more info, please. like maybe type out exactly what it says, like i did in previous post from my 1992 hard-copy helms factory manual. {{{or copy and paste since it's on a CD.}}}

i'd have to give it more weight if it's in the helms manual (and there's no update bulletin to correct a mistake). what do they say is the benefit/purpose of doing it that way?? etc.

Trooperbc I have a Helm's manual for my 99 Trooper. The first step in brake bleeding is to remove the ABS fuse, if so equipped. The second step is "Set the parking brake completely, then start the engine". It then repeats the exact same warning as your Chilton's namely "Notice: The vacuum booster will be damaged if the bleeding operation is performed with the engine off."

Not saying this applies to the 95 that started the posts. Just that it is a Helm procedure for some Troopers and that is what I have used with no damage.

central

central,thanks
so your 1999 trooper has 4-wheel AntiLock Brake System (ABS)?

central...

yeh, that's why in my first post i asked FEA...


with or without his response, I should have read it further and gone on to say that in my 1992 trooper helms manual, the ABS system does follow those instructions and says, too,

helms manual ....


I'd still like to know, if anyone out there can help, what/how damage occurs to vacuum diaphragm if engine is off on these ABS systems.

FEA, hope you're still there, and/or you're following the factory instructions (glad you got them).