Well, I've finally got the dual tank set-up connected to a 6-way valve. I've been looking for a used fuel valve for a long time, and could never seem to find one locally. Bid on 2 on eBay, and missed the second one as someone out bid me on the last 30 seconds. I hope they enjoyed it.
Now I can flip a switch on the dash and change from #2 diesel to er, whatever I have in the second tank. Right now it's some diesel, with quite a bit of cleaned used canola oil (I was careful not to pour on the white stuff from the bottom - fat?) and some hydraulic fluid also. I don't have the coolant lines hooked up yet, but after starting on diesel, it doesn't seem to mind the cold "solution" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />. I haven't put many (s)miles on it yet, but driving it on free fuel for the most part feels GOOD! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" /> to high fuel prices! Mind you the wife still drives the gasoline car... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

The second tank sits in the box of my truck. It is actually from the stationary Kubota diesel engine I have from one of those highway flashing ARROWS that you see during road construction, so some mods were required, as it wasn't designed to be a mobile tank and wanted to seep out fuel from the fill cap and vent. Heating it for now consists of coolant lines bundles with fuel/return lines to the tank, covered with foam pipe insulation, and the plastic pipe clamped down against the bottom of the tank . Pretty weak heating, but I didn't want to go through the work of in-coil heating, if all this wasn't going to co-operate in the first place. Besides, a lot of the problem of WVO comes from the fat in the oil that solidifies and plugs everything. If I can keep that out of the tank then a lot of the problem won't be there. The oil I get is pretty clean and over half of it doesn't have this in it.

I will let you know how well it works..or doesn't...after a few more miles.

BTW, the cheapest 6-port valve I could find was at JC Whitney (in the US for us Canucks). It was $53 and change, comes with a switch and plug with short wires for the valve. They are good to deal with. I received the valve sooner than I expected. They are quick.

Cheers for now. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Zack--

Good show on the tank setup. But seems like you might need more heat come winter up there. Keep us posted.

Paul

Zack and list. Glad to see others working on the use of other fuels in these great little trucks. I for one would luv to hear how other people are fixing there trucks to do so. I have been using (experimenting) with veggie oil and other oils about a year and several thousand miles. I am working with the single tank way of doing this. I have found several problems with using different fuels and so far have found solutions for them. I would be happy to exchange thoughts and ideas about running different fuels in these trucks.

crossbones

I have run WVO before in one tank, and other than being stubborn to start and run cold, it was fine. I've also run a bit of clean new motor and gear oil with diesel to try it, before I hooked up the second tank. The veggie I am using right now is just the stuff off the top of the pail - golden clear color, not the cloudy white stuff at the bottom that needs to be melted. That stuff plugs up filters FAST, if not melted of course. Seems to melt easily, mind you. However, If I can avoid it for now, I will. I'll burn it in the diesel generator I'm going to gear up, and it will have a good heating system in it for exactly that.

I am wanting to try used hydraulic oil in there, as it may be fairly plentyful for me, and of course will only be a viscosity issue, not a melt-and-solidify problem. Father-in-law, who is a tractor mechanic, seems to feel hydraulic oil won't have enough lubrication for the IP, as he has seen a transmission completely wear out due to someone using straight hydraulic fluid instead of the type designed to use with gears. Seems to me if the oil had poor lubricating properties, then the hydraulic pump pushing out at typically 2000psi would fail quickly from improper lubrication. My spidey, er, I mean mechanic sense tells me it should be fine. However, if anyone else has anything to add to this, I'm all ears.

Of course everything is filtered to 5 microns before it goes into the tank, then through a aftermarket VW-style filter after that, whatever it is for micron-ability.

Used ATF may be another possibility also. There is a transmission shop down the road whom I feel may give me some, should I ask. However, being a shop, the oil may be toast, as that's what he repairs, toasted transmissions. Guess I'll have to go see.

I'll keep you guys updated. Feel free to input. I too am quite interested in all this.

Not paying through the <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> for fuel = <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Zack,
What was the JC Whitney part number for he fuel change over valve?
I'll be processing some WVO into Bio Fule soon and want to be gin the mods to my 81 Luv. A dual tank seems like theway to go. I also plan on installing a second "pre-filter" before the normal one. It will be the same Isuzu filter/housing I have now so it shoudl use the same element.
Eric
Burke, VA

Zack and list. I have found a few cold start issues on oils other than diesel that are commonly known and some not. These engines will crank and run with compression as low as 390 lbs. on diesel , but lower than 400 lbs. make it marginal on veggie oil. So in my opinion compression is the leading factor to determine a single or dual tank system. It take a good glow plug system. In simple terms the glow plug system Must draw between 180-200 amps at the battery on initial cold start in order for consistent cold starts. If you find hard starts when the engine is about 140-160? then disconnect the wire at the sending unit that stops the glow plug system from working over 120?. If you have over night cranking problems with good compression and a good glow plug system then be looking at the factory fuel filter housing and fuel line for a air leak. There is a check valve in the filter housing that sticks open with the thicker fuels allowing the fuel to flow back to the tank. If all of the above checks good then try advancing the IP timing about 4?.

Filtering is very complicated, but yet very simple. First step is dealing with material contaminates. Pre filter what ever oil you run to at least 10 micron--5 better.....then let it set and settle for as long as you can. Now test for water....drop on hot exhaust.....smoke good....... sizzle Not...... If you have suspended water (sizzle) the fuel should be de-watered before using. The "excepted" way for veggie oil is to heat the oil to about 120? for a few hours....let cool and use the top 75%. I did not find this very satisfactory. Now before some one flames me about what I am about to say, "I am still testing with good results so far". Take a very large funnel and line it with about six or seven layers of paper towels.....pour your fuel through this about three times before changing the towels.....I am not trying to filter material contaminates but to absorb the tiny droplets of water.....(works amazingly well when oil has been blended with diesel or gas)...I then let it settle again for as long as I can and filter again to 5 micron before going into the fuel tank.

Thought that was complicated.....just wait........now you must take into account that at any point that your "fuel" is mixed with diesel/gas that it may cause very small particles to fall out of suspension and settle to the bottom of the fuel can or fuel tank. This can and does happen with a dual tank system at the time of change over (flushing the IP). Perhaps a third tank for flush?????This is more critical with using used hydraulic or motor oil on a single tank system. This is the main reason that I elected for the single tank(personal opinion) system and blend and filter all of my fuel before going into fuel tank. At this time I pre mix with 5% unleaded gas and 10% diesel to both thin the mix as well try to cause as much of the suspended material and water to "fall out" of the mix before entering the fuel tank. I will always limit the unleaded gas to 5% but may change the diesel % with weather or oil quality. If you have "smoke" on your mix try adding a little more diesel.

Note of caution when using diesel/gas and heated fuel line/filter. It is best to keep the temps below about 130-135? because of vapor lock. If you need some heat to keep the fuel filter from clogging, a good choice is to "tee" the IP return line into the incoming fuel line before the filter. I have found that using the "tee" setup gives about 106-109? temps when driving. Placing a turbo boost gauge between the fuel filter and the IP can forewarn you of filter plugging. I recommend adding a clear inline fuel filter as well as a electric fuel pump at the fuel tank in order to get more mileage out of your filters as well as to help with fuel starvation.

I welcome corrections, suggestions and questions as I have a lot to learn........

crossbones

kravdraa -
The part number you're looking for is ZX812705U, and it can be found here: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/.../Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=fuel%20valve

SO far it works fine. Wiring was easy. I didn't wire in the fuel guage switchover, as I only have one sensor, and it's in the original tank. The other tank has a level tube on the outside. The tank is big enough for me to go about 800kms so checking the level is no biggie. Besides, if I run out, I just flick a switch and keep on going. Daily commute is only 50kms total anyway.

crossbones -
My stubborn starting issue likely comes from the over 500,000 kms on the little engine. I've never checked compression in it, but I'm sure it's down. At one point in the early winter, I set up the timing with a bit of advance over stock (supposed to be 0.20mm lift @ 15deg, I have 0.23mm), and though it is rattlier, it didn't seem to make much difference. When the notor is warm, it fires up almost as fast as you can flip the key into the start position.
My glow plugs are hooked direct to a relay, controlled by me from a momentary switch on the dash. A 3 second count works ok, as long as I remember what comes after 2.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />
Thanks for your advice. You have obviously been dealing with this for a while. The fun of it all!


I got some transmission hydraulic fluid today from work, out of a tractor. The shop foreman saved about 8 gallons of it for me from a job he was doing. After a run through the filter, I'm going to give her a hook. I think it will work fine. Time will tell. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

Zack,
Thank you for the part number and link.
Do yo have a diagram of how you ran the hoses etc?

Eric

I'd show you a picture of my set-up, but it's such a mess I can't even make sense of it! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

The valve comes with a wiring and piping diagram which is easy to follow and quite clear, indicating how to hook up dual fuel gauges and dual fuel pumps.

I's scan the diagram but I never did get my scanner to work. That'll require a re-format and reload...another job for another day...yay Microsoft <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Zack--

The timimg numbers you quoted are a surprise to me. All of my info from the Isuzu manuals and from the under hood stickers show the timing to be 0.5 mm lift at 15 degrees for the Federal engine and 0.5 mm lift at 13 degrees for the Calif engine.

Maybe GM had their own idea for timing or maybe there is some difference in the engine or injection pump which would explain this. Does your pump have the cold start device on the side. There is a nice photo of the cold start device over on the Isuzu P'up forum. Take a look here:

http://www.isuzupup.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=336

The presence of the Cold Start Device requires that the static timing be about 8 degrees more advanced than without it. Federal timing would be about 0.5 mm lift at 7 degrees without the CSD. This might be close to your 0.2 mm at 15 degrees.

Paul