My 88 Runner hasn't had functional A/C for some time and I'd like to fix it. The condensor was damaged due to an impact with a tree, so I know it's replacement is in order. I had a shop check the system out, and while trying to charge the system they said the inside of my windshield started to fog up indicating a leak up under the dash somewhere.
Here's what I've been told to replace:
Condensor
Dryer (accumulator?)
Evaporator
all o-rings

Any helpful suggestions? I feel a quoted price of $700 to fix is crazy being as the truck cost me $1500. I'm quite capable of fixing most things within reason, I just have absolutely no experience with A/C. Pretty bad to be 32 years old and never had a truck with a/c in FL!

Busboy,
Check ackits.com for the prices of some of these items. For my '83 pickup, the accumulator is like $17, the condenser is $109, the compressor is around $200 and the evaporator is prob close to $200. They sell an o-ring kit that is $6. If you want to do this work yourself, you'll want to convert to R-134, so either flush your compressor and reuse it or get a new one. The old R-12 will have to be professionally evacuated. Also you'll need a vacuum pump to remove all the moisture from the system when you get it all hooked up.

Question- do I really need to get the system evacuated if it's not holding pressure anyway? How do I go about flushing the compressor when I get all the items and o-rings replaced? Have someone purge it with nitrogen gas? Also even though the R-12 is pricey, doesn't it cool much better than the newer stuff?

The system needs a vacuum pulled on it before filling it with the new gas and oil. You also need to check the system for leaks. Most if not all states require a license to purchase and install R12, so unless you are equipped to do so, an AC shop would be the best choice for doing those steps.

A lot of people say that their AC system never gets as cold when they go to R-134. I don't have first hand experience with that issue, so I can't say for sure. I have also read that properly pressurized R-134 system will cool just as well (I may have read that on a site that sells ac equipment, so that might be biased). I used to have an '88 with R-12 OEM system and it would get the cab FREEZING. I'm going to be fixing my AC here soon and I'm going with R-134, I figure some cooling has got to be better than none. There might be a day in the future when you simply CANNOT use R-12 anymore, so I figure I'll go ahead and changeover now.

I will be ordering a case of this stuff called maxi frige this week, it runs $110 for 24 15oz cans. It is designed to be a direct drop in replacement for either system, no modification or oil change is necessary. According to their web site and flyer it is 60% colder than R134-A and a 50% lower head pressure than the 134. I should have an idea of how it works next week.

I converted my R-12 to 134-A in '98 using the conversion kit and a set of pressure gauges. The 134 runs at a higher operating pressure, so you can only run 80% of what you would with r-12, in an R-12 system. This higher pressure is hard on R-12 compressors after time. The one thing I noticed between the 2 is that the compressor runs constantly with 134, while it used to cycle on and opff with the r-12. The 134 also doesn't cool the vehicle off much. With the r-12 my truck would get down to 28 degrees at the vent, and the vehicle would cool off enough to have to turn the fan down. With the 134 it never gets cold enough to turn the fan down or off of recirc. The 134 might cool better in a lighter colored rig than in my black one. If I had to gauge the temp 134 cools down to I would say about 80 degrees in my truck, cooler than the 105 outside, but by no means chilly.

Oil change on what? I guess I need to go stick my nose in the Bentley. I thought get the leaks and parts replaced, have the system evacuated and charged, done deal. I think I will go with R12 if I can, if there's availability and no leaks, there's no reason for me not to go with the cooler stuff. My wife's old 90' corolla would freeze you right out of the car- that had R12, right?

Your system requires a can of A/C oil and two pounds of of R-12. R-12 is running anywhere from a $90-120/lb here in CA, plus the oil and service charge. You should figure about $250 or more to have your system evacuated and charged with R-12. You might want to call a couple of the local A/C shops to get an idea of prices in your area. When I converted mine to 134 back in '98 the local shops wanted $140 to just recharge my system, that is why I went with 134(only spend $70 on everything).

If you don't mind paying for the R-12, I would go with it since it is a well proven A/C system.

Converted one of my trucks (86) from R-12 to R-134. Spent some time twiddling with the pressures, seeing how cold I could get it. When I got it to frost the windshield and give me brain freeze on a hot summer day, I figured it was working quite well.

In just about every application of a conversion, I've found R-134 to be capable of getting very cold.

Where and how are the pressure manipulated? Also, other than the condensor which had physical damage from a small tree encounter and O-rings for good measure, is it really necessary to replace the dryer and evaporator? Is an expansion valve something that coomonly goes bad as well? I really don't know if they are faulty or not. A buddy who replaced a dryer in his Runner said there is a small lead like plug that gets blown out of a brass screw on the dryer when it goes bad. Thanks for the responses, I'll be tearing into this very soon.