Thanks!!!

Alright, so this has me thinking...

I had the air filter out and managed to spill a little gas on it... brilliant, I know. Could this becausing a bad reading from the air flow sensor that is causing the C6 relay to not close?

I have an OBDII scanner, and the engine hasn't thrown any codes, for what that is worth. I'm really feeling like I'm groping without a service manual. Shouldn't have started this job without it.

You may be fighting yourself on this one. You won't get power to the fuel pump unless the key is actually turned all the way on like when you want the starter to engage. You may need have someone do that while you are looking for 12v to the fuel pump. That would eliminate any problems in that circuit. Then, once the thing is put back and started, you should see if you still have 12v to the fuel pump and if not either the MAF is not sensing any airflow or the computer is not holding the relay on. Take it one step at a time. It is easy to get lost and do more than you have to. I disassembled an entire Honda 750 engine thinking I had a bad cylinder when it was just a broken plunger in one carburator. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

I am DEFINITELY fighting myself on this one!

And you are also correct that I was not testing for 12v with the engine CRANKING. Note that my S2000 (for which I do have an FSM) runs the fuel pump for two seconds when the ignition is switched from 'ACC' to 'ON' (that's 'I' and 'II' if you speak Honda). I ASSUMED (cause I'm a dumb a$$) that the T would do something similar.

OK, so let's review:

My tank was rusty and leaking so I got a new (salvage) gas tank assembly. When I put it on, I had a leak on the main fuel line fitting. I cranked it about 6 times for 15 seconds each and it never caught. I fixed the leak by cutting out 12" length of flexible tubing the main fuel line and replacing it with 5/16" ID Fuel Injection tubing. I put two clamps on each end. I filled it with about 3 gallons and cranked about 8 times for 15 seconds each. I spilled a little gas on my otherwise brand new air filter. I put 4 more gallons in. I ran jumper cables from another car. I've cranked about 15 times for 15 seconds each. I pause about 15 seconds between each cranking. I verified that I do have 12v at the fuel pump during ignition.

So what are the possibilities?

1. I just need to crank more. The fuel will get there eventually.

2. The fuel pump from the salvage tank is bad. It's good enough to expose a leak in the main fuel line, but not good enough to provide pressure to get fuel in the engine.

3. One of my lines is clogged. Maybe one of the return lines got gunk in it while it was sitting at the salvage yard?

4. Something else.

Thoughts?

There is a filter in the tank. The manual says you should show between 0.2 and 3 ohms resistance across the connector to the pump. You could also hook 12V straight to the pump and see what happens. It says if you are running the pump out of the tank not to run it for more then 10 sec. I guess the fuel must cool it normally You should hear it running. Your tank must be grounded OK because you gas gauge is working but check the ground wire to the pump to see if it is goes to ground. It may be isolated from the tank ground by the factory for some reason. If you ever get fuel it should be 38-44 PSI of pressure. Good luck.

Well, I'm happy to report that I fixed it yesterday. Dropped the tank (for the third time) and carefully hooked up 12v directly to the fuel pump and got nothing. (This was the fuel pump that had come attached to the replacement (salvage) gas tank. I thought I was saving time by not switching them. Only cost me 3 weeks.) So, I hooked up my original fuel pump, ran 12v to it, and gas was pumped! I'm now an expert at remounting the tank, so that went quickly. The truck started in only about 5 seconds of cranking!

Nice to have it running again.

Oh, and my FSM still hasn't arrived.

Congratulations. Great to see it back up. If you get fed up with waiting for Toyota to send the manual and have a high speed internet connection you can go here:

http://techinfo.toyota.com/

and for $10 you get 24hrs to download all the manuals, Tech bulletins, etc. you want. Got my wife's Camry info there.

I'm back...

So I'm halfway out the neighborhood yesterday when I notice the pungent smell of gasoline...

Looked beneath the car and it was literally GUSHING...

Followed a trail of gasoline back to my house...

Just dropped the tank FOR THE FOURTH TIME! By the way, I'm getting really good at it. I swear I had it down in less than 15 minutes.

For those of you that had advised me to be careful about the replacement hose, you were right-- kind of. I had figured that I would be double careful and use TWO clamps on each end. Well on one end, one of the clamps was not positioned properly-- it was not covering the the inner pipe with the hose in between. It was covering the very end of the inner pipe. As I tightened it, it squeezed the hose and tried to slide away from the pipe. I noticed this, repositioned it, wondered if it might have done any damage to the inside of the hose, figured I'd know pretty soon, and clamped it down properly.

Well, turns out it took 3 weeks for the hose to burst. I cut apart the hose and can see how the clamp on the outside and the pipe on the inside acted like a set of scissors, which started a seam that eventually burst. I am just surprised it took so long.

Oh well, my wife's in town now getting more 5/16" I.D. F.I. Hose.

Looking thru old posts I saw this and with my own fuel line trouble this summer I had to comment.

Anytime a rigid tube/pipe meets a flexible hose, the tube needs to have a barb in the end. A hose clamp is meant to keep the end of the hose from going over the barb. If you just cut the fuel tube and slap a hose on, it'll come off.

Do not ever use hose clamps with slits in them on fuel lines. They tend to cut into hose. I've seen two kinds of hose clamps used on EFI lines - on Nissans they were solid steel band clamps that used a screw to tighten (and the FSM said never to reuse these) and on German cars they were Oetiker clamps (use a pincer plier to set them, and you have to break them to remove them) which are also solid steel around the inside circumference.

During my ordeal I fked up the nuts at both sides of the fuel filter. Hate for Toyota, for leaving these exposed so that dirt and rust causes the nut to weld itself to the tube.

I spent about $60 at the dealer for new fuel lines: I replaced the rigid line from the flexible hose coming off the fuel tank to the fuel filter; the longer rigid line from the fuel filter to the engine compartment; and the flexible hose attached to the rigid line in the engine compartment. I managed to get the union close to the fuel tank apart without twisting or stressing that piece of rubber hose much; no such luck under the hood and I didn't want to chance it, don't want fuel spilling onto the exhaust manifold.

Anyone who wants part numbers (for 1sttoyotaparts) PM me I will look them up in EPC. Oetiker clamps are my favorite and even tho they are not reusable and you have to buy pliers they are the most cost effective. $3-4 for a bag of 25 from mcmaster.com, measure the OD of your hose first.

And finally, the one thing I learned from my fuel line trouble:

Open the gas cap enough to relieve pressure and only a few drops of fuel will come out when you break the line, vs. gallons if you don't!