I installed the shackles and now have the driveline vibration at low speeds. I searched and found only one mention of the drive shaft length for a V6, auto Trooper (4 door) first gen. This length was 42.5" from flange to flange. Now, my understanding is that the measurement for length should be taken from the back of the u-joint cup on the output shaft to the same location on the pinion. Is that correct? OR, does anyone have the proper measurement for the above application? The post regarding the 42.5" did not mention the exact measurement process resulting in said length.

I have to remove and deliver my drive shaft and provide the dimensions for them to fab up the new one.

am I trying to make this more difficult than it should be? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

TIA - Jackleg <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Just measure from one flange to the other. If you're off a little bit, you won't be SOL, as the slip yoke will give you a little room for error.

driveshaft measurement is kinda of particular to the applicaiton. someone with a similar setup may be able to give you a ballpark, but when it comes to having a shaft made, you need to base this off your perticular setup and not what someone else has that is similar.

-Rob

Go ahead and remove your driveshaft to make your measurements. Just measure from flange to flange at ride height. Then when you take it in to be re-tubed, give them the new length. That's all I did.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

/edit/ dang I must be typing sloooow/

Thanks men for the timely info. I was trying to make things more complicated than they needed to be.

As you know, this is my DD and any down time is a killer. The wife is a little grumpy when I wake her up at 5:30 to take me to work <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> - JL

Just a little grumpy? --- Miss Kathy would be swinginÆ a Louisville Slugger! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />


You might want to consider the option of taking your Trooper to wherever it is thatÆll be doing the work, and having them measure ità then ask them to make an all-new drive shaft (itÆs really not THAT much more expensive than re-tubing û I got mine for about $120 IIRC). --- Going this route, the only down-time would be when you actually swap drive shafts û and you could choose a time that best suits your schedule (preferably one that wouldnÆt involve waking your peacefully sleeping wife <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> )


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Welcome to my world. Mine does the same thing. Just a little shimmy right off the line and then it quits. I want to retube mine, but seeing is how I just installed a new carrier bearing and the amount of money it took to do it, I'll wait until it goes bad or I lift it more.

Richard <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Another option.... remove your rear shaft, lock the hubs in, throw her in 4wd-hi and FWD your way to the shop. let them measure, drop off your old shaft for modification, and head home in FWD. then pick up your shaft when its ready, install it, shift back in 2wd, and you're back to normal again... no down time.

-Rob

Nice try Rob, but I don't think it will work in this case. If his is anything like mine, which I'm 99% sure it is, he'll end up dumping all the fluid out of the tranny pretty quick due to the slip yoke on the front of the shaft. If we didn't have it, then ya, that'd be the way to go.

Richard <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Oh yeah, thanks for catching that Richard. What I said only applys to those with a fixed yoke output on the tcase. Sometimes I forget there were slip yokes as well.

-Rob