just popped on a clearwater head on a 2.6 4 cyl and forgot the metal, rear, camshaft oil plug. Do i have to remove the head and tap it in or can i loosen the cam bolts a tad and pinch it inside the bearing cap with a little permatex on it. i also thought maybe i could lever it in from the back side since there is about 2.5 inches of free space back there. i already have the head torqued and the manifolds on the thing so i don't really wanna pul the head unless i have to. oops there
thanks

ddt

I've had good luck with just backing the bolts up and using permatex as you suggested. I use a socket and a short pry bar, some will go in with very little pressure but when you can't get to it it takes kingkong(my luck). IMHO

thanks for the confidence builder. i loosened lightly all the cam bolts in sequence, used some brown permatex freeze plug pookie and it slid right in to level with the head. retorque and it runs smooth. found a great place in dallas that does short blocks for $400 plus shipping. used the balance eliminator and it is smooth as silk + 12 horses.

bummer- i think i put the sucker in backwards. does the bottom of the cup go into the block or out. when she came up to temp it was leaking oil like a seive. i'll let it cool tonight and mess with it tomorrow. probably have to lift the rockers to flip it. i put the bottom of the cup out. DUH. really didn't feel that wet back there though.

IMHO that 12 hp figure might be a bit optomistic. I cant imagine those shaft each absorbing 6 hp ant not burning up, that heat would have to go somewhere!

The only place to dissapate it would be through the oil flowing through the bearings, I dont think there is near enough flow to remove that much heat.

Glad to hear the job has worked out,

Kevin

You do have the correct orientation. The solid end of the cup faces the rear of the engine. I had the same question when replacing the Raider head gasket. Checked the Conquest, which has never had the head removed, to verify. Used a new cup, carefully degeased all mating surfaces, added another thin ring of black RTV around the cup, set it in place, and installed the cam/lifter assy. No problems.
Just checked the Conquest and did a touch test. The cup base is about 1/4 inch recessed into the mounting blocks. Another place where oil can leak in this area is where the valve cover gasket meets the rear cam tower base, use a little RTV at the joint. Once used a partial roll of paper towels stuffed in this area to find the leak. Hope this helps.

Yep, the outside of the "cup" goes toward the rear of the engine compartment. You got 'er backwards, which would be funnier if the rest of these guys knew what you did in your day job.

John B.

you got that right about the job. now i have two descriptions of the cam oil seal plug. if it goes in like a freeze plug you should be able to put your finger in the hole but i have it in so you can feel the flat flush with the head. i just repladec the valve cover gasket (easy stuff first right) and after warm up it still leaks. let her cool tonight and read the board in case i gotta flip the plug. guess i should put in a new one in case it crushed outta tolerance.

I have by mistake put them in backwards for years with no problems... Didnt know I was doing it wrong till someone here brought it up.

This time.... It goes in right

Kevin

Some more information on the "cup" which the FSM calls the "circular packing". The 87 FSM diagram on page 9-34 would seem to me to imply the packing was a cylinder which is of no help. The 89 FSM diagram on page 9-26 clearly shows the open end of the packing toward the front of the engine and the closed end to the rear. The front edge of the packing is flush with the rear edge of the larger diameter (the oil gallery I presume) section in the middle of the rear bearing cap.