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pull n save diffs versus rebuilt #648577 09/20/05 07:30 PM
Anonymous
Unregistered
Ive found various places that I can buy a used rear diff with 4.88s(from 90s runners w v6) for my 87 runner. The problem is that they want 300 or more for them. I was thinking that for that much money couldnt I just pull mine out of my truck and have it rebuilt with new gears and parts for a little more than 300? Also I was wondering if I buy a G144 diff from say a 95 4runner with ABS brakes will i be able to mount that on my 87 4 cylinder 4runner(Are the abs brakes an issue). And if so will i have to buy any other parts in order to mount the used diff like a gasket kit or something. Ive even found diffs for sale in Denver, my home, on carparts.com but they want at least 300. The guy sais its because the G144 is "rare". There was sure enough of them on the internet...

Re: pull n save diffs versus rebuilt #648578 09/20/05 07:38 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,986
Red_Chili Offline
Toyota Section Staffer
The factory stock 4.88 diff is weird maybe, not really 'rare'. The diff takes a different ring and pinion than yours. There is not really a downside to it though, if it is in good condition, go for it. You might want to replace bearings, but that makes it as costly as redoing your own diff. You won't (most likely) be able to regear your diffs for ~$300, unless you do it yourself - which I would not recommend without some careful mentoring and special tools.

To R&R a diff, you only need FIPG. The gasket is worthless. I use Toyota driveline FIPG (orange) but there are a number of good brands available.


-Bill
'87 4Runner w/ '96 5VZ-FE, 'Red Chili II'
'97 Taco XtraCab 3RZ-FE, 'BlackBean'
TLCA # 13257, Rising Sun 4x4 Club Land Use Coordinator
"He who stops being better stops being good." -Oliver Cromwell
Re: pull n save diffs versus rebuilt #648579 09/20/05 08:29 PM
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 6,768
Brian894X4 Offline
Trail Leader
*****
Like Bill said, $300 won't cover the cost to rebuild, unless you can get the labor done for free. Gears alone are $150-200, then you need an install kit, which includes bearings, etc and that's $125-$175. Then there's labor. I've seen anywhere from $150-$250 charged for it. So, for brand new gears installed, the minimum would likely closer to well over $400. But more likely in the $500-600 range per axle.

One advantage of the factory 4.88 gears is that you'll get a V-6 rear diff, which is stronger. The disadvantage is that they are harder to regear to something like 5.29s if you want to use the same carrier. (I think)

The other disadvantage is you never know what condition they are in. The biggest problem with high mileage Toyota diffs is bad bearings due to lack of changing the diff fluid. Seems everyone remembers to change their engine oil, but most folks had no idea that diff fluid needed changing too.

As for being rare, the 4.88s are sort of rare. They were extremely common overseas, but here in the states they only came on '92-'95 trucks and 4Runners that had the combination of a V-6, automatic trans and 31" tires. There were plenty of 4Runners that had this combination, which is probably where most of them come from, but not as many trucks. As time goes on, the 4.88s will only be harder to find.

Not sure about the ABS sensor and how it would affect things.


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Re: pull n save diffs versus rebuilt [Re: Brian894X4] #648580 09/20/05 08:56 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,686
Staceman Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Quote
Not sure about the ABS sensor and how it would affect things.

Both my used diffs got this. Just cut the cable at the connector on the diff. leaving the connector there acts as a "plug" to keep gear oil from getting out.


85 4Runner - With NEW Marlin 4.7 Gears!! It's a whole new beast!
Re: pull n save diffs versus rebuilt [Re: Staceman] #648581 09/20/05 09:57 PM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,986
Red_Chili Offline
Toyota Section Staffer
Or do what I did, fab a little teardrop plate with a bolt hole, use the stock attachment bolt and FIP it in place. No leaks works fine last long time.

Quote
One advantage of the factory 4.88 gears is that you'll get a V-6 rear diff, which is stronger. The disadvantage is that they are harder to regear to something like 5.29s if you want to use the same carrier. (I think)

You think correctly, the over-the-counter 5.29s will not fit the 4.88 carrier. I am unaware of ANY 5.29s for the 4.88 diffs. And, BoulderRunner, since you are up here in the thin air with me, and running a 22RE, methinks 5.29s are what you really want.

V6 diff *carriers* are stronger, being 4-spider, as well as having bigger bearings (not sure if that really makes much difference, seen a Dana 30 lately??), but if you are gonna lock it with ARBs, say, that becomes moot. ARBs are already 4 spider carriers, making the strength difference much less.

Last edited by Chili_Man; 09/20/05 10:02 PM.

-Bill
'87 4Runner w/ '96 5VZ-FE, 'Red Chili II'
'97 Taco XtraCab 3RZ-FE, 'BlackBean'
TLCA # 13257, Rising Sun 4x4 Club Land Use Coordinator
"He who stops being better stops being good." -Oliver Cromwell
Re: pull n save diffs versus rebuilt [Re: Red_Chili] #648582 09/20/05 10:43 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 116
Seldom_Seen Offline
Wheeler
I've got a Toy 4.88 NON ABS diff that I've torn down and cleaned up. I was going to R&R the bearings, seals and replace the crush sleeve w/ a solid spacer, but I've decided to go a different route. The gear set has been pronounced "GO TO GO" by none other than the Chili_Man himself. I'll let it go for way cheap if intrested, PM me

P.S. I'm in Highlands Ranch.

Re: pull n save diffs versus rebuilt [Re: Red_Chili] #648583 09/20/05 11:28 PM
Anonymous
Unregistered
Ive heard varying opinions on gear setups but i thought the consensus was that 4.88 gears were the appropriate setup for 33 inch tires. Now ive also heard someone say that they wished that there was a gear between 4.88 and 5.29, and that the ultimate setup was 4.88s on 32 inch tires. I was thinking i might go that route (32 inch tires w 4.88).Ive heard that 5.29s give a bit more pep but that its too loud on the highway since the rpms are really high at 75 mph. My truck is obnoxious with the flowmaster already, but maybe its worth it for the power... But now I will ask the pertinent question. Approximately, what is the top speed and rpms for a 22re with 33s and 4.88s? and the same for 5.29s?

Re: pull n save diffs versus rebuilt #648584 09/21/05 12:18 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 290
Kaptain Offline
Mudrunner
I was fortunate to find a junkyard v6 diff w/ 4.88's for $125.. (That was from Car-part.com). That ratio seems perfect to me.. At 70mph shes turning just over 3k.. If you plan on going to 35's at anytime go for 5.29's.


93' Toy xCab
bobbed > 22rEB > w56 > stock duals > SAS > 4.88's > 37's
Re: pull n save diffs versus rebuilt #648585 09/21/05 12:57 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,854
G
Greg_Canada Offline
Roll Me Over
I Find i hit the speed limiter before it revs out in my stock truck.


89 4Runner
3" BL, M/T locks, 33"bfg mt, bilstein, Kayline, tubebumper, toyotafiberglass panels
TBI: Elocker,3.4 w/ORS,b+b,S2Sstg2cams,arias pistons,P+P intake,TRDs/c,URDpullies+7th,downey headers,MAPECU2,WEGO WB, SupraMAF,walboro255,stg4clutch, EPaOo2 sim
Re: pull n save diffs versus rebuilt [Re: Greg_Canada] #648586 09/21/05 03:15 AM
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,941
DRTDEVL Offline
J
Roll Me Over
*****
I don't think my truck needs a speed limiter... It's self-induced! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />


"A young man who does not have what it takes to perform military service is not likely to have what it takes to make a living." - John F. Kennedy

Proud owner of an 88 Montero (with a blown engine).
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