Hey guys what are the ways to remove welded stamped steel components on the frame to clean parts off like IFS and old shock towers etc.

Do you use a cut off wheel and just dig into the weld bead?

I just set up my oxy/acet torches and used them for the first time. I am pretty good at getting a good cutting jet and blasting through metal (first day using one) but not sure if you can use a torch on a frame you are trying to keep. I know you could use the torch head at an angle to deflect the gas away from the frame -- Is this the way to do it?

I was also using a crowbar just after the puddle to keep the slag from rewelding itself back together.

Am I on the right track or is the torch not the preferred tool for this job?

Also noticed I can barely cut through the front lower a-arm mount with the torch is that because it is cast?

Your doing good
use a cutoff wheel for the places that you dont want to get to hot but a torch works great. get them cut off close and then use a grinder to smooth out the rest try to avoud cuttung the frame it self. have fun <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

I was also using a crowbar just after the puddle to keep the slag from rewelding itself back together.

No. You need to adjust the torch so that it blows the slag away. If you are getting lots of slag you are a) not at a correct angle b) not enough pressure on the O2 for cutting. There are a few more explanations, but if you can set it to cut smoothly, without much slag, then it is correct.

Am I on the right track or is the torch not the preferred tool for this job?

Personally, I would use the cutoff wheel more, followed by the grinding wheel. Cutoff as much as you can. Don't try to break the bead with the cutoff, but instead, remove the bulk of what you can and then grind the rest of it out of your way.

But that is me. I find the torch a PITA in close quarters. Semi-messy with too much else to catch fire that you don't want to catch fire.

Also noticed I can barely cut through the front lower a-arm mount with the torch is that because it is cast?

Yes.

Good Luck,
Michael

I ripped out the brake and gas lines even though they were in good condition so I can go to town with the torch. yes that is good advice about slag, says so right in the manual, haha.

I don't have a torch. I did, however, get a lot of use out of my angle grinder and Sawzall. Although it was super messy and time consuming, I was able to get the frame pretty clean.

As a side note, because of the large amount of metal particles flying all around, I always used safety glasses and a face shield, in addition to thick leather gloves, a welding cap and a heavy cotton shirt (which still caught on fire about three times). I've heard too many stories about metal shavings getting stuck in places they don't belong.

I'm a big fan of using my straight and angled air-grinders, with a 3" cutoff wheel. The air bodies allow you more flexibility than an electric, and air is more forgiving if you dig the wheel in -- less kick. That said, a torch works great in many places, especially if you have the motor out and can blast merrily away.

The rear lower control arm mounts are comprised of what sems like three separate stamped-metal layers that appear to be welded on in sequence. Using a torch is tough here because of the way the flame or plasma arc deflects internally, so if you do choose to torch, leave yourself a half inch or so of standoff from the frame. It is much easier to dress the frame letter with a grinder than it is to patch-weld holes you've inadvertently gouged in the frame.

Randii

I prefure to use a torch and then dress it with a grinder.

Make sure of a few things when using a torch:

angle the torch about 15* down so you have the tip pointing at where you are going:

cutting from right to the left angle like ----/.....
---= not cut yet
...= already cut

if you have slag build up torch may be to hot* but probable you are moving way to slow.

Practice on some scrap
to cut 1/8" you will have to move about 2 or 3 times as fast as you would 1/4"

have your atcetlyne knob tite snug and your oxygen knob open
you will use your oxygen knob on the torch head to control oxygen flow.
Fire up your torch and get a nuetral flame,when you hit the cut handle(oxygen) you should see the flame turn from a nuetral flame to something that looks like afterburners on a jet.two streaks of blue.

Practice makes perfect,so don't give up on cutting yet.

Also cut verticle from up to down,this will keep slag from puddling up and clogging your tip.

Bansil